With tropical storm Sandy approaching the east coast and
potentially heading for Virginia and much of the mid-Atlantic and northeast,
the Governors along the eastern seaboard have declared states of emergency. The
local utilities have already requested additional workers to restore power
lines, so it seems a good time to discuss basic storm preparations for your
home and how intense rainfall associated with tropical storms and hurricanes
can impact your drinking water well and septic system, and what you should do
if your well and septic system are impacted. I am posting this blog entry a
little early, so I can run off to the grocery store and pick up some more milk,
orange juice, coffee and produce and any other emergency supplies I don’t have
on hand.
My home is on well water and without electricity I have
no water, no septic, no sump pumps, my freezer containing a quarter of a cow
(grass fed) that is in danger of spoiling, and my life generally disrupted with
the loss of the all the modern conveniences. So five years ago, I had a Guardian 16 kilowatt
automatic generator manufactured by Generac installed. When the power
to the house is cut, the generator automatically kicks in to power most of the
house in about 20 seconds. The generator runs on liquid propane from a tank
buried in my yard that also powers my hot water heater, furnace, gas grill and
stove. The generator can supply the house for more than two weeks depending on
whether the gas furnace is running, and is housed in an insulated aluminum
casing under my deck (muffling the sound) and looking good as new even after
five years of sitting outside.
My Generator |
The generator was serviced over the summer after the last
storm and was filled with oil, and the propane tank was filled last week in
preparation for winter. (Note that if the generator runs more than a few days
especially when new it will need oil.) So, I am all set to go on those fronts.
However, it is a little late to be installing a whole house generator and I
understand that there has been quite the run on portable generators, so you may
not be able to get one today. So, you need to make sure that your sump pump or
pumps are operational and have battery backup (check those batteries and make
sure they work), clear all the leaves out of your gutters and make sure the
down spouts drain away from your foundation. Keeping water away from the house
will protect your home and minimize the work that the sump pumps will have to
do. Make sure you have batteries and flash lights. Even with the generator, we
keep flashlights around. If you do not have a generator, fill plastic bags with
water and put as many as you can in your freezer today. The water will freeze
by tomorrow and the frozen water will serve to keep the freezer cold without
power- just like a cooler. If the power
goes out, you might also want to use some of the ice bags to keep your refrigerator
cold. In the end you can drink the water. Bring in all outdoor furniture,
decorations, garbage cans and anything else that is not tied down, put them in
the garage-that includes the pumpkins on the stoop.
Without electricity your well pump will not work, so you
will need to fill the bathtubs and gallon jugs with drinking water when the
storm hits to make sure that you will have water. If your home and well are on
low ground, and the area floods then it is possible your well could be
impacted. After a storm, brownish or dirty water coming from the well is a
common occurrence and indicates surface water infiltration carrying dirt and
contaminants into the well. If your well was flooded or your water appears
dirty or brownish you need to clear your well and disinfect it and the stored
water may have to last you a few days.
Septic systems should not be used immediately after flooding.
Drain fields will not work until underground water has receded. Septic lines have
been known to break during significant flooding, so keep an eye out for that.
Whenever the water table is high or your septic drain field has been flooded,
there is a risk that sewage will back up into your home. The only way to
prevent this backup is to relieve pressure on the system by using it less.
Basically, there is nothing you can do but wait it out, do not use the system
if the soil is saturated and flooded. The wastewater will not be treated and
will become a source of pollution, if it does not back up into your house, it
will bubble up into your yard. Conserve water as much as possible while the system
restores itself the drain field dries out and the water table fails. Also,
if the septic system is not and entirely gravity system you will need power to
run the pumps and need to understand if there is adequate gravity flow to move
the sewage from the house.
The available volume in the septic tank (assuming you
occasionally pump it) should give you several days of storage and water use if
you conserve water to allow your drain field to recover. The biggest single use
of water in the home is laundry- a top loading washer uses 52 gallons and a
front load washer uses 27 gallons- do not do laundry until the system has
dried out. Toilets manufactured
before 1992 use 5 or more gallons per flush while newer, low flush toilets use
1.5 gallons per flush. Only flush older toilets when you have to- not for urine.
Go easy on your water use. The septic system operates on the principals of
settling, bacterial digestion, and soil filtration all gentle and slow natural
processes that will have been battered by the storm. Do not pump the
septic tank while the soil is still saturated. Pumping out a tank that is in very
saturated soils may cause it to “pop out” of the ground. Recently installed
systems may “pop out” of the ground more readily than older systems because the
soil has not had enough time to settle and compact.
If your well was flooded or your water appears dirty or
brownish after the storm you need to clear your well and disinfect it. Your
power must be restored to disinfect the well. Run your hoses (away from your
septic system and down slope from your well) to clear the well. Run it for an
hour or so and see if it runs clear. If you have a robust recharge rate as I do
it will take hours to clear the well. If not let the well rest for 8-12 hours
and run the hoses again. Several cycles should clear the well. What we are
doing is pumping out any infiltration in the well area and letting the
groundwater carry any contamination away from your well. In all likelihood the
well will clear of obvious discoloration. Then, you need to disinfect your
well. This is an emergency procedure that will kill any bacteria for 7 to 10
days.
Well with a sanitary cap |
Determine what type of well you have and how to pour the
bleach into the well. Some wells have a sanitary seal which must be unbolted.
Some well caps have an air vent or a plug that can be removed. On bored or dug
well, the entire cover can simply be lifted off to provide a space for pouring
the bleach into the well. Carefully pour the bleach down into the well casing
using a funnel if necessary. For a typical 6 inch diameter well you need 2 cups
of regular laundry bleach for each 100 foot of well depth to achieve about 200
parts per million chlorine concentration. If you don’t know the depth of the
well, pour a half gallon down the well. Wear rubber gloves, old clothes and
protective glasses to protect you from the inevitable splashes, and don't
forget a bucket of bleach mixed with water to wash the well cap.
After the bleach has been added, run water from an
outside hose into the well casing until you smell chlorine coming from the hose
(depending on the depth of your well and the recharge rate, this can take an
hour or more). This step is important to mix the chlorine in the well. Then
turn off the outside hose. Now go into the house and if you have a water
treatment system, switch it to bypass before turning on the indoor faucets, then
one bathroom and sink at a time, turn on the cold water faucets until the
chlorine odor is detected in each faucet, then shut it off and move on to the
next sink, or bathroom (if you have an automatic ice maker turn it off and dump
the ice. Do not turn on the hot water. Once the inside system has been done, go
back to the outside spigots and run the hoses until you smell chlorine coming out.
Warning if you have iron bacteria in your well, your water may turn completely
rust colored. Do not panic it will flush out of the system, but do not use the
hot water until the water runs clear or you will have to drain the hot water
tank to prevent staining.
Wait 8 to 24 hours before using the water. You want to
run the hoses until the water runs clear if you have iron bacteria or simply
run the hoses to prevent killing all the bacteria in the septic system. It is
important not to drink, cook, bath or wash with this water during the time
period it contains high amounts of chlorine whose by products are a carcinogen.
After at least 8 hours, run the water into a safe area where it will not kill
your lawn, your trees or plants pollute lakes, streams or septic tanks. Run the
water until there is no longer a chlorine odor. Turn the water off. The system
should now be disinfected, and you can now use the water for 7 to 10 days when
the effects of the disinfection wear off. After 7 to 10 days you need to
test your well for bacteria to make sure that it is safe.
The Virginia Cooperative Extension (VCE) Office will be hosting
a drinking water clinic for well owners in Prince William County as part of the
Virginia Household Water Quality Program and subsidizing the analysis cost. So
you may want to attend to test your well. The Kickoff Meeting will be on
November 5, 2012 at 7 - 8:30 pm at the Old Courthouse, 9248 Lee Avenue in
Manassas, VA 20110. Unlike public water systems, private systems are
entirely unregulated; consequently, the well testing, and treatment are the
voluntary responsibility of the homeowner.