Showing posts with label moisture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label moisture. Show all posts

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Look for Termites


There are many species of termites. In the United States there are four groups of termites of concern: subterranean (including the Formosan termite), drywood, dampwood and powderpost. Subterranean termites and drywood termites are the two general types. Combined these termites cause $1.5 billion in damage annually in the United States. These termites perform the important task of breaking down the large quantities of dead and fallen trees and other sources of cellulose that continuously accumulate in the forests. Unfortunately they also attack wooden structures and other wood products like paper, books, insulation, and if left uncontrolled, will cause extensive damage to structures and paper materials. When termite damage becomes evident it is usually the result of years of infestation. In nature, termites are usually the secondary invader of woody plants already in decline. While buildings may become infested at any time, termites are often only discovered when a spring swarming is observed or a home is sold since a Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) inspection and a written report indicating any termite activity or damage is required to obtain a mortgage.

Subterranean termites are the most common termite in the United States. The Formosan subterranean termite is the most destructive of the subterranean termites because of the size of their colonies and the rate at which these huge colonies can consume wood. The Formosan subterranean termite is believed to have been imported to the United States from China via Japan and Hawaii. They have been reported in eleven southern states: Alabama, California, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Texas. A single colony may contain several million individuals ten times the size of other subterranean species, they can forage up to 300 feet in soil and can consume as much as three quarters of a pound of wood a day and severely damage a structure in months rather than years. Once established, Formosan subterranean termites have never been successfully eradicated from an area, and pose a threat to nearby structures.

All subterranean termites are social insects that live in colonies in the ground below the surface. The colonies have three primary castes: workers, soldiers and reproductive. The workers are creamy white, are seldom seen, and feed on the wood causing all the damage. Workers are about a quarter of an inch long and can live for up to five years. The workers feed the other termites. The soldiers have yellow heads with large jaws and are about the same size as the workers. The soldiers literally defend the perimeter and mud tubs of the colony. Neither the solider nor the worker willingly expose themselves to light to prevent moisture loss and are rarely seen. The reproductive termites (Kings, Queens) are dark brown or black and up to a half an inch long. They have two pair of translucent wings that appear light colored of equal length that fall off shortly after swarming as part of the mating process. The mated pairs attempt to locate moist wood in contact with soil to start a new colony. Most pairs do not succeed. The shed wings or the observed swarming are usually the only indication of termite infestation. Swarming occurs in late winter to early summer in most parts of the United States. There are also secondary reproductive females in mature large colonies.

There are other signs of infestation that are often missed or ignored. Earthen (mud) tubes that extend over foundation walls, support piers, sill plates, floor joists, etc. are the most easily identifiable sign. The mud tubes are typically about the diameter of a pencil. Termites construct these tubes for protection from natural enemies and prevention of moisture loss as they travel between their underground colonies and the structure. To help determine if an infestation is active, the tubes may be broken open and checked for the presence of small, creamy-white worker termites. Some tubes are abandoned even as an infestation remains active and tubes are not always present if direct access to wood components is available from the soil. Stucco, brick veneer or insulation below grade provides the termites with hidden access into the structure. The infestation will typically go undiscovered until damage becomes obvious.

Another common indication of subterranean termite infestation is the presence of dark areas or blisters in wood flooring. However, subterranean termite damage can go unnoticed because the termites only eat the interior spring wood leaving the grain and exterior surface intact. However, the termite galleries can be detected by tapping the wood every few inches with the handle of a screwdriver. The damaged wood sounds hollow and the screwdriver may even break through the wood into the galleries. In traditional construction with a basement most termite infestations occur in the basement and the structural timbers immediately above the basement walls such as mudsills, studs, joists, subflooring and floors. Wooden posts, steps, door frames, and any wood embedded in concrete or dirt floors are very susceptible to termite infestation. When a home is built on a concrete slab the flooring and framework for the walls can be damaged by termites. Termites favor the areas around furnaces, chimneys, hot water heaters and hat water pipes that provide warmth and moisture during cold months.

Most homes in United States were treated to prevent termites during the initial construction process. Termite treatments either barrier chemicals or poisons were sprayed into the soil under and around building before concrete was poured during construction. Most new construction in the United States is required to have pre-treatments for termites. Typically, large volumes of termiticide emulsion were sprayed into the excavation to fill the soil around the foundation walls before the concrete is poured. Competently treated structures are expected to resist termites for 5-10 years. The treatments are not permanent so it is necessary to develop a strategy to prevent termite infestation early. It is easier and less toxic to prevent infestation than to treat an infested home. However, it is not advised to use the barrier chemicals which involve pouring hundreds of gallons of toxic chemicals into the ground every 5 years. In addition, regulations prevent the application of most if not all termiticide within 50 feet of water well. There are steps a homeowner should take to make a house less ideal for termite invasions to minimize the use of chemicals. The US EPA has developed their Pesticide Environmental Stewardship Program (PESP) to encourage the least toxic methods of controlling pests. The integrated pest management approach for termite control involves the following steps: Inspection, detection and monitoring.

The thorough inspections and periodic regular monitoring will help determine the location of any termite damage and its extent, as well as identify signs of previous and current infestation. Research from the Entomology Department of University of Florida found that properly trained termite dog and their trained handler are the most effective termite inspectors. This is not a joke, but it is really funny to have your house inspected by a beagle. Termite Dogs can smell termites, through drywall, concrete, paneling and all other building materials and sit down to indicate a find. The paper “Ability of Canine Termite Detectors to Locate Live Termites and Discriminate Them from Non-Termite Material” was published in 2003 by the University of Florida. They tested dogs specifically trained to detect. In field trials the dogs were able to accurately locate termites in 95.93% of the time which was better than the trained human inspectors.

Determine treatment plan. There is a difference between finding termites and finding "conditions conducive to termite infestations". Both situations need to be addressed, but usually in different ways. Eliminating conditions favorable to wood-destroying pests, mostly moisture-related problems, usually means repairs or alterations to the crawlspace, elimination of water pooling locations and leaks in basements, crawlspaces or other parts of the house or the area around it. Wood that is at least 30% water saturated provides enough moisture. Termites will find free-standing water such as condensation, rain or plumbing leaks and use this moisture as their main source for survival. The treatment options are bating with spot treatment and traditional chemical barriers. Termite baits use small amounts of slow acting insecticide to knock out populations of termites foraging in and around the structure. Some bait systems may even eradicate entire termite colonies. A chemical barrier is the other option plan and involves using hundreds of gallons of termiticide to create an unbroken barrier of treated soil around and under the foundation. The chemicals are injected under pressure and may usually require the drilling of concrete slabs, porches and patios. Termite treatment is not a DIY project. Many of the consumer available products do not work and application technique is essential to success.

Finally, monitoring is an important element of termite control which is often difficult to achieve. Termite treatment is not a one-time event, but an ongoing struggle. When using barrier chemicals, termites may find their way through tiny, untreated gaps in the soil since it is practically impossible to establish a continuous, impenetrable chemical barrier. In the case of baits, it may take months for termites to find the bait installations and several months to achieve control of the colony. For this reason it is advised by various extension offices and the EPA to maintain a monitoring and service agreement.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Keeping Moisture and Pests out of your House

Too much moisture in a home can lead to mold, mildew, and other biological growth. The presence of these molds can lead to a variety of health problems including allergies (my problem) asthma and more serious respiratory problems. In addition to health problems, excess moisture can lead to problems such as rot, structural damage, and paint failure and create a hospitable environment for pests. For example, termites require moisture in order to survive. Although ridding an infested house of termites requires an integrated pest management approach that includes a conventional chemical treatment or the use of baits, there are steps a homeowner should take to make a house less ideal for termite invasions to minimize the use of chemicals. Subterranean termites and drywood termites are the two general types. Subterranean termites "nest" in the soil and from there they can attack structures by building shelter tubes from the soil to the wood in structures. Subterranean termites cause more of the damage to homes and structures than drywood termites so will be my primary focus here. Termites will attack any material with cellulose, including wood, paper coated wall board, and paper (as in that treasured book collection). Wood that is at least 30 percent water saturated provides enough moisture. Additionally, termites will find free-standing water such as condensation, rain or plumbing leaks and use this moisture as their main source for survival.
Correcting and preventing moisture problems is a first defense against termites and should be considered before prophylactic application of barrier termiticide post construction. It is to be noted that many states (especially in the south east) require the application of termiticide chemical barrier before construction as part of site preparation. These preconstruction treatments are required to be effective for five years. It is reported that the newer, biodegradable chemicals are effective for 5-11 years; however, some termiticides breakdown easily in water and should not be applied within 50 feet of a water well or the water table. Other chemicals are more persistent and cling to soil. There are other techniques that should be used first and should be used as part of a termite management strategy. According to BIRC (The Bio-Integral Resource Center in Berkeley, CA) prevention and early detection are the most effective methods of reducing the use of toxic chemical in termite control. As a side note BIRC has an “ask the expert” section of their organization web site where they will help you identify the least toxic solution to your pest problem. They are really nice so ask away.
Rain water should not run up against the house (nor should plant irrigation water). The soil level against the exterior walls should slope away from the building. Even in areas where the natural topography is towards the house and artificial slope should be created in a shallow “V” to prevent water from pooling around the foundation. The ground around the home's foundation should be graded to slope down and away from the house at a rate of 1/2" to 1" per linear foot to drain surface water away from the house. If need be a French drain should be dug an adequate distance from the house. Most houses are built with the soil level sloped away from the building, but landscaping and time can undermine this. Plants should not be planted closely against a structure to avoid “watering the building” instead of the plants.
Water from down spouts should be directed away from the house, discharging at least a few feet from the foundation. If the natural flow of water is to pool in any location, it may be advisable to direct all down spouts to a dry well system or pipe to a more natural drainage location. Test any underground drains with a hose to make sure they are working properly. Often underground drains become blocked with debris or broken and allow water to drain against the building. Drains that are not working should be repaired or replaced. Be sure that driveways, sidewalks, and patios slope down and away from foundation walls at 1/4" per linear foot.
If these solutions do not eliminate a moisture problem then the next steps will have to be taken. In extreme cases, you may have to dig out around the foundation and replace the fill with an exterior drain tile and with a good draining material such clean gravel. Because this can be very expensive in existing homes, all the previous solutions should be rigorously tried first. In some areas, there may not be enough room outside the dwelling to provide proper drainage - in these cases; it is often recommended that interior drain tile and a sump pump be installed to remove water from basements and crawlspaces. This is very expensive and messy, but is extremely effective.

Monday, June 1, 2009

Sump Pumps


Too much moisture in a home can lead to mold, mildew, and other biological growth. This in turn can lead to a variety of health effects, but it is mold and mildew I fear. Mold and moisture are the enemies of book collections and beneath my house in what most people would call a basement is the Library. It is home to my husband’s collection of books that he has spent 40 years assembling from every used book sale he has every hunted down or that we traveled to on vacation. While there are no first editions of note, there are things like the $2 used book he found in and old part of St. Louis which is worth many times that.

An unfinished, dry, partial daylight basement was a selection criterion for this house. There are steps that can be taken to minimize or eliminate water intrusion into a basement and they will be discussed in more depth on later posts, but since it was my intention to finish the basement as a library, we selected a house with a dry basement. The house which was only a few years old had been vacant for about seven months with the power shut off so I had the opportunity to see how the basement did through the spring without the sump pumps operating. The ground slope was less than optimal but good and the water table below the basement level.

The house has two sump pumps, one in the northeast corner of the basement and the other in the south east corner. The natural slope of the site is from the north west to the south east. Like most newer houses in the northeast United States, the basement slab is poured over a bed of about a foot of gravel stone into which are buried drain tiles that are (hopefully) pitched toward the sump. The drain tiles may extend under the entire basement, just along the footings or only in the area of the sump pumps depending on local codes and site considerations. These days drain tile is usually perforated plastic pipe run around the interior and exterior perimeter of the house. At one time clay tile was used and the name is retained from those days. The sump is a two foot diameter hole that should hold around 15-25 gallons of water.

A sump pump lifts the water up and out of the sump through a pipe that extends outside the house at ground level. There are two basic types of sump pumps, the pedestal and the submersible. The pedestal pump has the motor on top of the pedestal and is visible above the floor surface. The motor on a pedestal pump is turned on and off by a ball float. The on/off switch is visible so that it can be checked. Submersible pumps are designed to be sit at the bottom of the sump and is activated by a ball float or a sealed mercury switch. Both types of sumps have a check valve on the water outlet pipe to prevent flow back when the pump is shut off.

Most sump pumps are turned on automatically when water level in the sump rises. Why have a sump pump if you wait until flooding has occurred to turn it on? There are three types of switches: a float, a pressure and mercury activated floating switch. Mercury switches have been phasing out. Since 2004, many states have passed legislation restricting the sale of mercury-added switches and relays, including float switches and tilt switches. As more of these state laws go into effect, mercury use in switches will likely decline. The following states currently have restrictions on the sale and/or distribution of mercury-containing pumps: Connecticut, Louisiana, and Rhode Island. In addition, California, Illinois, Maine, Massachusetts, Minnesota, New Hampshire, New York, and Vermont restrict the sale and/or distribution of pumps that contain a mercury switch as a component.All pedestal sump pumps are activated by a float activator (a ball valve just like in a toilet rises and turns the motor on when the water rises). Submersible sump pumps are activated by either a pressure sensor (water has more pressure than air so that when the water rises to cover the switch the motor turns on), or a floating switch.

Both types of sump pumps are centrifugal pumps. They use impellers to force the water to the sides of the pipe creating a vacuum at the center which sucks in the water. You’ve seen this with the functioning of an immersion blender. The typical sump pump is sized at either 1/3 or ½ horsepower. A larger motor is needed to lift water to a higher level.

Soil conditions, groundwater level, rain and siting aspects of the property will determine the amount of time that a sump pump will operate and the number of pumps necessary to keep a house dry. Many houses with limited issues are built with one sump pump to handle occasional or seasonal problems. Sump pumps are powered by electricity and often it is recommended that a ground interrupt plug is used because you have water and electricity coming together. There are two problems with that. The first is that the pump needs to be regularly checked to make sure the ground interrupt has not been tripped, ground interrupt plugs trip at the wall. Without checking, only failure of the sump pump (flooding) would indicate that the plug failed. The second problem is power interruption. Sump pumps are often most needed during and after rain storms. This is a time when power often fails. Without power the typical sump pump will not operate. A battery backup system is the most common type of backup and should be seriously considered for any installation where the dryness of the basement matters. Running a sump pump on a backup generator is another possibility, and if your property runs on “city water” there are sump pumps driven by the municipal water supply pressure. They should only be used as back up pumps because they do waste drinking water.

Sump pumps and backup systems need to be tested or checked regularly so that an equipment failure will be noticed before the system fails and the basement floods. At least annually the system should be checked for functioning.

  •  Check the plug to ensure that there is power to the pump motor
  •  Remove the lid from the sump and inspect the interior with a flashlight, look to make sure that the pump is upright.
  • Slowly pour a five gallon bucket of water into the sump. The sump should automatically starts and the sump drains quickly.
  • If your sump pump is a submersible one, the grate on the bottom should be periodically cleaned of any gravel debris that might have been pulled into the pump.
  • Know where your discharge pipes are and ensure that that are unblocked. They can become blocked with garden debris.