Water contains traces of minerals that are essential for human health. Water picks up tiny amounts of minerals and metals from rocks and soils. In elevated concentration these miners can be a nuisance, but in small enough quantities they improves the taste of water and provide essential elements. In many parts of the country water, especially groundwater contains high levels of dissolved calcium and magnesium ions. This is what is known as hard water. For generations water softeners have been sold to treat almost all well water ailments. They have been overused, and are bad for the environment and septic systems. There are other ways to treat water problems.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water or 7 grains per gallon can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. Concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter (10.5 grains per gallon) is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home.
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues by adding vinegar to dishwashers and using hard water formulated shampoos, but it is the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances that induces them to get a water softener. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life.
The ubiquitous water softening system is an ion exchange system consisting of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water coming into the house must pass through the mineral tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions (along with small amounts of other minerals) are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium from salt is used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water making it taste salty. It is reported that the 10-year life-cycle costs for new, high-efficiency water softeners was $4,000 for water with 150 mg/L hardness. However, cost is not the only problem with the ion exchange water softeners. The brine tank is flushed out when the resin beads are recharged carrying the salty solution to the environment. The salinity of surface waters and groundwater is an emerging environmental concern. Research has shown that salinization has affected over a third of the drainage area of the contiguous United States even in areas without road salt.
Some regulators in California, Connecticut, Texas, Massachusetts, Michigan and Minnesota have identified the use of ion-exchange water softeners as a major source of sodium chloride to both surface waters and groundwater. Households that use ion exchange water softeners typically use sodium chloride; and the used brine is regularly discharged to either wastewater treatment plants or septic systems. Which in turn releases it into the environment since neither septic systems nor waste water treatment systems can remove salt.
The Bureau of Reclamation, California State Water Resources Control Board, Santa Clara Valley Water District, City of Phoenix, City of Scottsdale funded a study: “Evaluation of Alternatives to Domestic Ion Exchange Water Softeners.” The study took place in 2014 and was led by Peter Fox, Ph.D., a Professor at Arizona State University. They examined what in the industry is called water conditioner. Water conditioners often called “salt-free water softeners” do not remove calcium or magnesium, but rather render then less likely to deposit hard lime scale.
Using literature search to identify likely candidates, the researchers used DVGW – W512 the test physical water treatment techniques. DVGW-W512 is the test methodology used to determine effectiveness of water conditioning devices to prevent or reduce scaling in drinking water heating systems. The researchers measured scale reduction in water to see if physical water treatment techniques work. They looked at systems that did not require chemicals to be added to the water and the most promising techniques based on the literature review. These physical water treatment devices tend to work by forming subicron crystals of calcium carbonate that remain suspended in water and do not remove the calcium carbonate, so a water analysis would not have proven if these devices held the potential to be effective.
The researchers tested Template Assisted Crystallization, Electromagnetic treatment and electrically induced precipitation. They found that Template Assisted Crystallization worked best reducing lime scale by more than 95%. Both Electromagnetic treatment and electrically induced precipitation reduced scale formation by 40%-50%. The scale formed in the by the latter two was “soft” scale that easily brushed or washed off. The test does not determine long term accumulation
Water conditioners sold on the market today (six years later) work through a process called template assisted crystallization (TAC), have been certified by DVGW-W512 and are available in whole house units. In template assisted crystallization, water flows through a tank of TAC media. This media consists of tiny polymer beads covered in craters called “nucleation sites.” These nucleation sites act as templates to form the hardness micro-crystals. When the hard water comes into contact with the media, the magnesium and calcium ions are caught by the nucleation sites. As more calcium and magnesium ions build up within the sites, small micro-crystals form. and apparently retain their crystalline structure as they flow through your plumbing. They do not attach themselves to your water pipes as scale.
Electrically Induced Precipitation – An applied current induces the formation of “soft” scale on an electrode that must regularly cleaned off. I have seen this phenomena in my electric kettle which only requires a damp cloth to remove the soft scale while my old stove kettle needed to be replaced every few years. The scientists demonstrated why this was true in their tests.
Though magnetic devices have been sold for ages, there are none certified and no consistent standard. However, the researchers found that electromagnetic fields they created at the strength indicated in their study can reduce the formation of lime scale. There is no scientific consensus as to the effectiveness of magnetic water treatment and its removal mechanisms. No devises have been tested and certified. However, Dr. Fox’s team did test an electric current induced magnetic field around a pipe. That seemed to produce a soft precipitate.
These physical water treatment devices do not remove the hardness minerals from the water, but to varying degrees reduce some of the problems associated with hard water. Today, water conditioners sold as “salt-free water softeners” are based on template assisted crystallization (TAC). Though these water conditioners do prevent the build up of lime scale, they do not produce soft water. Water softeners have been used for generations not only to prevent lime scale, but to remove low levels of iron, manganese and radionuclides from water. Iron can cause staining of sinks and fixtures, affect taste of drinking water, and contribute to pipe blockages. Iron and manganese can be removed with an iron filter or chlorination and filtration. Long-term exposure to high radionuclide levels can have many negative health effects. Reverse osmosis is effective in removing radionuclide levels, though some local health departments recommend replacing the well if possible. For generations the salt based water softener has been sold to remove other contaminants, but there are other options. Water conditioners can address lime scale. Know your water chemistry and what contaminants you want to remove before buying any water treatment equipment.
Showing posts with label Hard water. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hard water. Show all posts
Monday, September 28, 2020
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Hard Water, Water Softeners and Septic Systems
In many parts of the country groundwater contains high levels of dissolved minerals and is commonly referred to as hard. Groundwater very slowly wears away at the rocks and minerals picking up small amounts of minerals and metals that can be a nuisance in elevated concentrations, but in small enough quantities improves the taste of water. Calcium and magnesium ions are the minerals that make water hard. Water contains traces of minerals that are essential for human health. Though research has found conflicting results relating the mineral content of water to the risk of cardiovascular disease, the majority of studies indicate the lowest risk when minerals in water are highest and highest cardiovascular risk when the water is soft.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water (ppm) or 7 grains per gallon can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. (Some label water hard at 100 ppm.) Certainly, concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter (10.5 grains per gallon) is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. The minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly).
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues by adding vinegar to dishwashers and using hard water formulated shampoos, but are induced to treat their water because of the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life. However, softened water increases the potential for leaching heavy metal from pipes, solder, and plumbing fixtures. Increased levels of copper, lead, zinc, and cadmium are found in soft water, particularly when it stands overnight in the plumbing system.
The classic water softening is an ion exchange system consisting of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water supply pipe is connected to the mineral tank so that water coming into the house must pass through the tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions (along with small amounts of other minerals) are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium is often used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water, thus the taste and potential health impacts that requires bypassing the kitchen sink or additional treatment.
Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank this occurs two or three times a week and consumes 20-30 gallons of water. Sodium is typically used in the brine tank, but potassium can also be used. The excess sodium solution carrying the calcium and magnesium is typically flushed to the septic system. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem for humans, the septic system and the environment. Softened water is not recommended for watering plants, lawns, and gardens due to its sodium and chlorine content. Water used in recharging a water softener is discharged into the septic tank and soil absorption field if you have a septic system. Otherwise a separate holding tank or discharge, which could be emptied by a vacuum truck would have to be installed into the plumbing system.
Salt water is heavier than fresh water and interferes with the passive functioning of the septic tank. The salt water sinks to the bottom of the tank occupying space that is designed for the settling of heavier solids interfering with the proper formation of layers in the tank and driving the solids and grease into the drainfield. In addition, while some studies have shown that sodium does not interfere with bacterial action in ATU tanks in alternative septic systems, David Pask, Senior Engineering Scientist of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse has seen septic distribution pipes plugged with a “noxious fibrous mass” that was grease and cellulose from toilet paper that only occurred in homes with water softening systems. He felt the brine in the conventional septic tank had interfered with the digestion of the cellulose fibers and might be carried over into the septic systems drain field. Field practitioners reported to the Small Flows Clearinghouse negative impact from water softening regeneration brines. A study involving two adjacent septic field dispersal systems in a shared mound have shown that the trenches that received the septic effluent with water softener brine discharges formed a thick, gelatinous slime layer that clogged the infiltrating surface, while the trenches receiving no salt water discharge remained open with a normal microbial clogging layer.
All of the salt that is released into the septic system and ultimately the leach field and groundwater can impact the ecology. According to the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency, chloride concentration above 180 mg/L interferes with nitrogen fixation in the environment. Chloride concentration in the regeneration discharge can reach into the 10,000 mg/L and sodium concentration can reach 6,000 mg/L. According to Orenco Systems a field study of 18 on-site wastewater treatment systems in Virginia clearly showed that nitrogen removal was inhibited in systems receiving water softener backwash brine.
To solve the taste problem or health concerns associated with drinking softened water reverse osmosis systems are often sold as an accessory item when a whole house water softener is installed or for other actual or imagined problems without proper testing. Waste water from household systems is typically connected to the house drains and will add to the load on the household septic system. This is a significant additional water use and load to the septic system and could impact the life and functioning of your septic system and well since a 5 gallon a day reverse osmosis system might waste 90 gallons a day. The principal uses of reverse osmosis in are for the reduction of high levels of nitrate, lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, sulfate, sodium and total dissolved solids.
No treatment is without consequences and an inappropriate treatment could create other problems without providing any measurable benefit. Before considering purchasing any treatment system test your water yourself to get a full picture of the nature of your water supply. Never purchase a water treatment system without first fully testing your water for at least iron, manganese, nitrate, lead, arsenic, fluoride, sulfate, pH, total dissolved solids, hardness, sodium, copper, total coliform bacteria and E. Coli bacteria, appearance, taste and anything else of local concern. (Prince William County is holding a subsidized water clinic on March 31, 2014.)
Personally, I did extensive water testing on my well before I purchased the home to ensure that I could live with the well water without further treatment. This does not guarantee me a lifetime of problem free well water since groundwater is a dynamic system that can vary over time and wells age and do die, but it is a start. If you must soften your water, potassium chloride can be used instead of sodium chloride in a typical water softener. Potassium chloride works exactly the same way that sodium chloride does in the softening process and the potassium chloride reduces the amount of sodium in drinking water, the potassium in the treated water is a necessary mineral and it eliminates the excess sodium in the septic system, drain field and released into the environment, but not the chloride problem. The impact of potassium chloride on septic systems has not been studied. Potassium chloride costs much more than sodium chloride. A forty pound bag of pellets costs about $40 for Potassium chloride and under $8 for sodium chloride.
One final note, though magnetic water softening is sold, according to research done at Purdue University in the 1990’s this method of water conditioning was not effective. Mike R. Powell, P.E., author of an exhaustive discussion of the research relating to magnetic water treatment entitled “Magnetic Water and Fuel Treatment: Myth, Magic, or Mainstream Science?” states “Much of the available laboratory test data imply that magnetic water treatment devices are largely ineffective, yet reports of positive results in industrial settings persist ….” “Consumer Reports magazine tested a … magnetic water treatment device…. Two electric water heaters were installed in the home of one of the Consumer Reports staffers. The hard water (200 ppm) entering one of the heaters was first passed through the magnetic treatment device. The second water heater received untreated water. The water heaters were cut open after more than two years and after more than 10,000 gallons of water were heated by each heater. The tanks were found to contain the same quantity and texture of scale. Consumer Reports concluded that the … unit was ineffective.” I called Consumer Reports to obtain a copy of the article and permission to cite it.. The full 280 word article can be found in the February 1996 volume of Consumer Reports on page 8. It appears that bottom line is, don’t waste your money on magnetic water treatment.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water (ppm) or 7 grains per gallon can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. (Some label water hard at 100 ppm.) Certainly, concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter (10.5 grains per gallon) is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. The minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly).
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues by adding vinegar to dishwashers and using hard water formulated shampoos, but are induced to treat their water because of the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life. However, softened water increases the potential for leaching heavy metal from pipes, solder, and plumbing fixtures. Increased levels of copper, lead, zinc, and cadmium are found in soft water, particularly when it stands overnight in the plumbing system.
The classic water softening is an ion exchange system consisting of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water supply pipe is connected to the mineral tank so that water coming into the house must pass through the tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions (along with small amounts of other minerals) are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium is often used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water, thus the taste and potential health impacts that requires bypassing the kitchen sink or additional treatment.
Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank this occurs two or three times a week and consumes 20-30 gallons of water. Sodium is typically used in the brine tank, but potassium can also be used. The excess sodium solution carrying the calcium and magnesium is typically flushed to the septic system. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem for humans, the septic system and the environment. Softened water is not recommended for watering plants, lawns, and gardens due to its sodium and chlorine content. Water used in recharging a water softener is discharged into the septic tank and soil absorption field if you have a septic system. Otherwise a separate holding tank or discharge, which could be emptied by a vacuum truck would have to be installed into the plumbing system.
Salt water is heavier than fresh water and interferes with the passive functioning of the septic tank. The salt water sinks to the bottom of the tank occupying space that is designed for the settling of heavier solids interfering with the proper formation of layers in the tank and driving the solids and grease into the drainfield. In addition, while some studies have shown that sodium does not interfere with bacterial action in ATU tanks in alternative septic systems, David Pask, Senior Engineering Scientist of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse has seen septic distribution pipes plugged with a “noxious fibrous mass” that was grease and cellulose from toilet paper that only occurred in homes with water softening systems. He felt the brine in the conventional septic tank had interfered with the digestion of the cellulose fibers and might be carried over into the septic systems drain field. Field practitioners reported to the Small Flows Clearinghouse negative impact from water softening regeneration brines. A study involving two adjacent septic field dispersal systems in a shared mound have shown that the trenches that received the septic effluent with water softener brine discharges formed a thick, gelatinous slime layer that clogged the infiltrating surface, while the trenches receiving no salt water discharge remained open with a normal microbial clogging layer.
All of the salt that is released into the septic system and ultimately the leach field and groundwater can impact the ecology. According to the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency, chloride concentration above 180 mg/L interferes with nitrogen fixation in the environment. Chloride concentration in the regeneration discharge can reach into the 10,000 mg/L and sodium concentration can reach 6,000 mg/L. According to Orenco Systems a field study of 18 on-site wastewater treatment systems in Virginia clearly showed that nitrogen removal was inhibited in systems receiving water softener backwash brine.
To solve the taste problem or health concerns associated with drinking softened water reverse osmosis systems are often sold as an accessory item when a whole house water softener is installed or for other actual or imagined problems without proper testing. Waste water from household systems is typically connected to the house drains and will add to the load on the household septic system. This is a significant additional water use and load to the septic system and could impact the life and functioning of your septic system and well since a 5 gallon a day reverse osmosis system might waste 90 gallons a day. The principal uses of reverse osmosis in are for the reduction of high levels of nitrate, lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, sulfate, sodium and total dissolved solids.
No treatment is without consequences and an inappropriate treatment could create other problems without providing any measurable benefit. Before considering purchasing any treatment system test your water yourself to get a full picture of the nature of your water supply. Never purchase a water treatment system without first fully testing your water for at least iron, manganese, nitrate, lead, arsenic, fluoride, sulfate, pH, total dissolved solids, hardness, sodium, copper, total coliform bacteria and E. Coli bacteria, appearance, taste and anything else of local concern. (Prince William County is holding a subsidized water clinic on March 31, 2014.)
Personally, I did extensive water testing on my well before I purchased the home to ensure that I could live with the well water without further treatment. This does not guarantee me a lifetime of problem free well water since groundwater is a dynamic system that can vary over time and wells age and do die, but it is a start. If you must soften your water, potassium chloride can be used instead of sodium chloride in a typical water softener. Potassium chloride works exactly the same way that sodium chloride does in the softening process and the potassium chloride reduces the amount of sodium in drinking water, the potassium in the treated water is a necessary mineral and it eliminates the excess sodium in the septic system, drain field and released into the environment, but not the chloride problem. The impact of potassium chloride on septic systems has not been studied. Potassium chloride costs much more than sodium chloride. A forty pound bag of pellets costs about $40 for Potassium chloride and under $8 for sodium chloride.
One final note, though magnetic water softening is sold, according to research done at Purdue University in the 1990’s this method of water conditioning was not effective. Mike R. Powell, P.E., author of an exhaustive discussion of the research relating to magnetic water treatment entitled “Magnetic Water and Fuel Treatment: Myth, Magic, or Mainstream Science?” states “Much of the available laboratory test data imply that magnetic water treatment devices are largely ineffective, yet reports of positive results in industrial settings persist ….” “Consumer Reports magazine tested a … magnetic water treatment device…. Two electric water heaters were installed in the home of one of the Consumer Reports staffers. The hard water (200 ppm) entering one of the heaters was first passed through the magnetic treatment device. The second water heater received untreated water. The water heaters were cut open after more than two years and after more than 10,000 gallons of water were heated by each heater. The tanks were found to contain the same quantity and texture of scale. Consumer Reports concluded that the … unit was ineffective.” I called Consumer Reports to obtain a copy of the article and permission to cite it.. The full 280 word article can be found in the February 1996 volume of Consumer Reports on page 8. It appears that bottom line is, don’t waste your money on magnetic water treatment.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Residue from the Dishwasher –VAMWON Notes from the Field
VAMWON Notes from the Field are a series of stories of the questions and sometimes the solutions I’ve encountered as a volunteer with VAMWON. The Virginia Master Well Owner Network (VAMWON) is an organization of trained volunteers and extension agents dedicated to promoting the proper construction, maintenance, and management of private water systems (wells, springs, and cisterns) in Virginia. The Cooperative Extension Services in Virginia manages the program and have numerous publications and fact sheets that can help homeowners make educated decisions about their drinking water. The VAMWON volunteer or Agent can help you identify problems with the water system and provide information on suggested treatments options and other solutions. You can find your VAMWON volunteer neighbor through this link by entering your county in the search box.
Below is an email I received (my contact information is available through the VAMWON web site).
“I have another mystery, if you are agreeable to finding another solution. For several years, I have noticed that when I drink water out of my glassware, the water smelled "dusty"....which I assumed was the residue from the dishwasher detergent. I would try at different times to solve this problem by rinsing an extra cycle, or minimizing the amount of detergent. I am down to two tablespoons now. The dishes still get clean, but the smell persists.
(1) I assume this is not a dangerous occurrence.
(2) Is there another test that we should have included in our sample that we will take this week ...? “
The homeowner had just forwarded to me the analysis results from their most recent water testing. The homeowners have three grandchildren under the age of 3 year’s old living in their home so they have been testing their water regularly using the WaterCheck package available from National Testing Laboratories, Ltd. If your home drinking water is supplied from a private well, you are responsible for ensuring that your water is safe to drink. There are no requirements to sample and sample analysis can be quite expensive depending on what analyses are performed. The homeowner is responsible for paying for the sampling.
In the past the homeowner had told me that they had high iron and hard water and a treatment system, but the test results showed low iron and manganese and water that were not particularly hard. I questioned where the sample was taken and the homeowner assured me that they took the water sample from the back outside water spigot (after properly cleaning it) that is after the simple sediment filter but before the water softener. The water treatment company they consulted had reportedly tested their water and found high iron when they sold them the water treatment system that apparently consisted of a whole house fiber filter and a water softening system.
I was a little puzzled by the results and I had asked the homeowner to check their toilet tanks for a red or rust colored slime. They found no slime in any of the toilets, but did find a small amount of sediment in the bottom of each toilet that is a rusty red color and clouds up the water when swirled with a toilet brush. They also found a bit of milky colored substances around the black gasket that the flapper on multiple toilets. When she scratched off a bit with her fingernail, it floated up like tiny pieces of “corn starch.
What she described sounded like a precipitate (calcium carbonate, sodium chloride) its white color would indicate few impurities, minerals and impurities tend to add color to precipitates. Though it is possible that the water treatment company performed a coagulation test, but most people are honest though their test are often very limited in scope. Considering the problem assuming the water treatment company actually found iron before they sold the homeowner a treatment system and now the water tests were non-detect for iron I realized there could be a simple explanation given where the sample was taken. Particulate or colloidal (Ferric iron (Fe3+)) may be the form of iron present in the water supply. This form of iron appears as particulates in the oxidized form. Particles in suspension in the tap water result in water that has rust, red or yellow color when the particles settle.
One of the recommended treatments for iron is aeration followed by filtration – This method is effective for treating iron and manganese with a combined concentration of between 5 and 10 ppm. Air is mixed with passing water to oxidize the iron and/or manganese producing particles that can then be filtered out of the water by a fiber filter. When water leaves the well it is exposed to air that can have this effect depending on the flow rate and holding times in the system. The water then passes through a filter to screen out particles of iron and/or manganese. An oxidizing filter treatment system is the next level of filtration. It is effective in treating iron and manganese at combined concentrations of up to 15 mg/L. Because oxidizing filter units combine oxidation and filtration, they can be used to treat water with dissolved and/or particulate iron and manganese.
It appeared that the filter on the homeowners system was doing a decent job of removing the iron oxide particles. The more oxygen the water is exposed to before the filter, the better it works. So when the pump is working full out, there is less time for oxygenation in your pressure tank and your filter will be less effective. Retesting the water supply ahead of the filter could confirm this, but would be an additional cost. The effectiveness of the installed water softening system for iron removal is very limited. Iron and manganese present in combined concentrations of 5 ppm or less can usually be removed by using an ion exchange water softener. However, this is not an optimal removal method.
As for hard water, some University extension offices designate 125 ppm as the cut off for hard water others use 100 ppm. No matter which standard you use 120 ppm the level present in their water is only marginally hard. My own water is significantly harder and I do not treat. I just use detergent based soaps and lots of vinegar to treat the limescale. I just assume my hot water heater will be a short lifer. In addition, the water softening system might impact the life of your septic system. The salt reportedly reduces the life of the septic tank (www.watersystemscouncil.org ) and may impact the peat medium and soil in the drainage area. Also, softening can make your water slightly acidic and in that way reduce the life of all your fixtures. So softening becomes a trade off and is best only used if you prefer a slightly salty water residue. I believed that the residue on the dishes might be simply salt and suggested they try turning off their softener.
The homeowner chose to turn off their iron exchange water and found that the “dusty smell” and residue on the glasses disappeared. In addition, she claims to be much happier with the “feel” of the hard water.
Below is an email I received (my contact information is available through the VAMWON web site).
“I have another mystery, if you are agreeable to finding another solution. For several years, I have noticed that when I drink water out of my glassware, the water smelled "dusty"....which I assumed was the residue from the dishwasher detergent. I would try at different times to solve this problem by rinsing an extra cycle, or minimizing the amount of detergent. I am down to two tablespoons now. The dishes still get clean, but the smell persists.
(1) I assume this is not a dangerous occurrence.
(2) Is there another test that we should have included in our sample that we will take this week ...? “
The homeowner had just forwarded to me the analysis results from their most recent water testing. The homeowners have three grandchildren under the age of 3 year’s old living in their home so they have been testing their water regularly using the WaterCheck package available from National Testing Laboratories, Ltd. If your home drinking water is supplied from a private well, you are responsible for ensuring that your water is safe to drink. There are no requirements to sample and sample analysis can be quite expensive depending on what analyses are performed. The homeowner is responsible for paying for the sampling.
In the past the homeowner had told me that they had high iron and hard water and a treatment system, but the test results showed low iron and manganese and water that were not particularly hard. I questioned where the sample was taken and the homeowner assured me that they took the water sample from the back outside water spigot (after properly cleaning it) that is after the simple sediment filter but before the water softener. The water treatment company they consulted had reportedly tested their water and found high iron when they sold them the water treatment system that apparently consisted of a whole house fiber filter and a water softening system.
I was a little puzzled by the results and I had asked the homeowner to check their toilet tanks for a red or rust colored slime. They found no slime in any of the toilets, but did find a small amount of sediment in the bottom of each toilet that is a rusty red color and clouds up the water when swirled with a toilet brush. They also found a bit of milky colored substances around the black gasket that the flapper on multiple toilets. When she scratched off a bit with her fingernail, it floated up like tiny pieces of “corn starch.
What she described sounded like a precipitate (calcium carbonate, sodium chloride) its white color would indicate few impurities, minerals and impurities tend to add color to precipitates. Though it is possible that the water treatment company performed a coagulation test, but most people are honest though their test are often very limited in scope. Considering the problem assuming the water treatment company actually found iron before they sold the homeowner a treatment system and now the water tests were non-detect for iron I realized there could be a simple explanation given where the sample was taken. Particulate or colloidal (Ferric iron (Fe3+)) may be the form of iron present in the water supply. This form of iron appears as particulates in the oxidized form. Particles in suspension in the tap water result in water that has rust, red or yellow color when the particles settle.
One of the recommended treatments for iron is aeration followed by filtration – This method is effective for treating iron and manganese with a combined concentration of between 5 and 10 ppm. Air is mixed with passing water to oxidize the iron and/or manganese producing particles that can then be filtered out of the water by a fiber filter. When water leaves the well it is exposed to air that can have this effect depending on the flow rate and holding times in the system. The water then passes through a filter to screen out particles of iron and/or manganese. An oxidizing filter treatment system is the next level of filtration. It is effective in treating iron and manganese at combined concentrations of up to 15 mg/L. Because oxidizing filter units combine oxidation and filtration, they can be used to treat water with dissolved and/or particulate iron and manganese.
It appeared that the filter on the homeowners system was doing a decent job of removing the iron oxide particles. The more oxygen the water is exposed to before the filter, the better it works. So when the pump is working full out, there is less time for oxygenation in your pressure tank and your filter will be less effective. Retesting the water supply ahead of the filter could confirm this, but would be an additional cost. The effectiveness of the installed water softening system for iron removal is very limited. Iron and manganese present in combined concentrations of 5 ppm or less can usually be removed by using an ion exchange water softener. However, this is not an optimal removal method.
As for hard water, some University extension offices designate 125 ppm as the cut off for hard water others use 100 ppm. No matter which standard you use 120 ppm the level present in their water is only marginally hard. My own water is significantly harder and I do not treat. I just use detergent based soaps and lots of vinegar to treat the limescale. I just assume my hot water heater will be a short lifer. In addition, the water softening system might impact the life of your septic system. The salt reportedly reduces the life of the septic tank (www.watersystemscouncil.org ) and may impact the peat medium and soil in the drainage area. Also, softening can make your water slightly acidic and in that way reduce the life of all your fixtures. So softening becomes a trade off and is best only used if you prefer a slightly salty water residue. I believed that the residue on the dishes might be simply salt and suggested they try turning off their softener.
The homeowner chose to turn off their iron exchange water and found that the “dusty smell” and residue on the glasses disappeared. In addition, she claims to be much happier with the “feel” of the hard water.
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Magnetic Water Softening Does it Work?
In many parts of the country (including mine) the water contains high levels of dissolved minerals and is commonly referred to as hard. Groundwater very slowly wears away at the rocks and minerals picking up small amounts of minerals and metals that can be a nuisance in elevated concentrations. Calcium and magnesium ions are the minerals that make water hard. Before considering purchasing any treatment system test your water yourself to get a full picture of the nature of your water supply. No treatment is without cost or consequences and an inappropriate treatment could create other problems.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water (ppm) can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. (Some label water hard at 100 ppm.) Certainly, concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. The minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly).
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues but are induced to treat their water because of the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life.
The traditional treatment for hard water is a chemical softening system which is chemical process based on ion exchange can be easily tested. The water softening system consists of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. As the water is softened, the sodium (or potassium) ions are replaced and are released into the softened water. If a water sample is tested after the treatment system there is no (or very little) calcium and magnesium left in the water and the sodium or potassium is elevated. Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank.
For decades magnets have been promoted and sold to eliminate water harness. Early devices involved a series of magnets, these have been replaced to a large extent in the market with alternating magnetic or electrostatic fields to adopt to the emergence of plastic piping. Magnetic water treatment has been promoted since the first half of the 20th century, yet it is still not proven that they actually work. Though many claims made by salesmen are preposterous pseudoscience, there are anecdotal stories that can not be completely dismissed. For a wonderful and funny discussion of the scientific validity of the marketing claims of the purveyors of magnetic water treatment systems see the website of retired Chemistry Professor Stephen Lower, PhD. For those of you so inclined it is witty and funny.The reason that after all this time the question of whether magnetic water treatment systems work is not definitively answered is the claim that exposing water to a magnetic field will decrease the water’s “effective” hardness. Effective hardness cannot be tested for with a chemical analysis. Magnetic water treatment system salespeople typically claim that the systems will eliminate scale deposits, lower water-heating bills, extended life of water heaters and household appliances, and more efficient use of soaps and detergents without the ongoing expense and bother of continual salt addition to a brine tank.
The effectiveness of these magnetic water treatment systems is difficult to prove or disprove. No magnesium or calcium is removed from the water by magnetic treatment, nor is it claimed to be removed. Instead, the claim is that the magnetic field decreases the tendency of the dissolved minerals to form scale through various mechanisms. Testing the water will find the mineral levels unchanged. Even though the dissolved mineral concentration indicates the water is still hard, magnetically treated water is supposed to behaves like soft water. Anecdotal stories and people's perceptions of relative softness are used to “prove” the effectiveness of the products, and the anecdotal stories cannot be entirely dismissed.
There is apparently no consensus among magnet vendors regarding the mechanisms by which magnetic water treatment occurs. As Dr. Lower points out lots of pseudoscience is thrown around, but there is no valid explanation for a mechanism of how magnetic water treatment can work. Claims by salespeople of magnetic treatment devices to be "softening the water" are simply lies. If the systems work at all and no controlled research has demonstrated that they do work, they do so by some unknown mechanism and somehow reduce the tendency of water to form and maintain lime scale. The "hardness" of water is defined by the measured amount of minerals it contains, magnetic water treatment does not claim to reduce this. Instead their claims are to reduce deposits of lime scale on pipes and appliances. Unfortunately for testing purposes, the development of hard lime scale is a slow process, requiring many years to become measurable and a serious problem.
Mike R. Powell, P.E., author of an exhaustive discussion of the research relating to magnetic water treatment entitled “Magnetic Water and Fuel Treatment: Myth, Magic, or Mainstream Science?” states “Much of the available laboratory test data imply that magnetic water treatment devices are largely ineffective, yet reports of positive results in industrial settings persist ….” “Consumer Reports magazine tested a … magnetic water treatment device…. Two electric water heaters were installed in the home of one of the Consumer Reports staffers. The hard water (200 ppm) entering one of the heaters was first passed through the magnetic treatment device. The second water heater received untreated water. The water heaters were cut open after more than two years and after more than 10,000 gallons of water were heated by each heater. The tanks were found to contain the same quantity and texture of scale. Consumer Reports concluded that the … unit was ineffective.” I called Consumer Reports to obtain a copy of the article and permission to cite it.. The full 280 word article can be found in the February 1996 volume of Consumer Reports on page 8. It appears that bottom line is, don’t waste your money on magnetic water treatment.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water (ppm) can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. (Some label water hard at 100 ppm.) Certainly, concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. The minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly).
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues but are induced to treat their water because of the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life.
The traditional treatment for hard water is a chemical softening system which is chemical process based on ion exchange can be easily tested. The water softening system consists of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. As the water is softened, the sodium (or potassium) ions are replaced and are released into the softened water. If a water sample is tested after the treatment system there is no (or very little) calcium and magnesium left in the water and the sodium or potassium is elevated. Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank.
For decades magnets have been promoted and sold to eliminate water harness. Early devices involved a series of magnets, these have been replaced to a large extent in the market with alternating magnetic or electrostatic fields to adopt to the emergence of plastic piping. Magnetic water treatment has been promoted since the first half of the 20th century, yet it is still not proven that they actually work. Though many claims made by salesmen are preposterous pseudoscience, there are anecdotal stories that can not be completely dismissed. For a wonderful and funny discussion of the scientific validity of the marketing claims of the purveyors of magnetic water treatment systems see the website of retired Chemistry Professor Stephen Lower, PhD. For those of you so inclined it is witty and funny.The reason that after all this time the question of whether magnetic water treatment systems work is not definitively answered is the claim that exposing water to a magnetic field will decrease the water’s “effective” hardness. Effective hardness cannot be tested for with a chemical analysis. Magnetic water treatment system salespeople typically claim that the systems will eliminate scale deposits, lower water-heating bills, extended life of water heaters and household appliances, and more efficient use of soaps and detergents without the ongoing expense and bother of continual salt addition to a brine tank.
The effectiveness of these magnetic water treatment systems is difficult to prove or disprove. No magnesium or calcium is removed from the water by magnetic treatment, nor is it claimed to be removed. Instead, the claim is that the magnetic field decreases the tendency of the dissolved minerals to form scale through various mechanisms. Testing the water will find the mineral levels unchanged. Even though the dissolved mineral concentration indicates the water is still hard, magnetically treated water is supposed to behaves like soft water. Anecdotal stories and people's perceptions of relative softness are used to “prove” the effectiveness of the products, and the anecdotal stories cannot be entirely dismissed.
There is apparently no consensus among magnet vendors regarding the mechanisms by which magnetic water treatment occurs. As Dr. Lower points out lots of pseudoscience is thrown around, but there is no valid explanation for a mechanism of how magnetic water treatment can work. Claims by salespeople of magnetic treatment devices to be "softening the water" are simply lies. If the systems work at all and no controlled research has demonstrated that they do work, they do so by some unknown mechanism and somehow reduce the tendency of water to form and maintain lime scale. The "hardness" of water is defined by the measured amount of minerals it contains, magnetic water treatment does not claim to reduce this. Instead their claims are to reduce deposits of lime scale on pipes and appliances. Unfortunately for testing purposes, the development of hard lime scale is a slow process, requiring many years to become measurable and a serious problem.
Mike R. Powell, P.E., author of an exhaustive discussion of the research relating to magnetic water treatment entitled “Magnetic Water and Fuel Treatment: Myth, Magic, or Mainstream Science?” states “Much of the available laboratory test data imply that magnetic water treatment devices are largely ineffective, yet reports of positive results in industrial settings persist ….” “Consumer Reports magazine tested a … magnetic water treatment device…. Two electric water heaters were installed in the home of one of the Consumer Reports staffers. The hard water (200 ppm) entering one of the heaters was first passed through the magnetic treatment device. The second water heater received untreated water. The water heaters were cut open after more than two years and after more than 10,000 gallons of water were heated by each heater. The tanks were found to contain the same quantity and texture of scale. Consumer Reports concluded that the … unit was ineffective.” I called Consumer Reports to obtain a copy of the article and permission to cite it.. The full 280 word article can be found in the February 1996 volume of Consumer Reports on page 8. It appears that bottom line is, don’t waste your money on magnetic water treatment.
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Test Your Well Water
If your home drinking water is supplied from a private well, you are responsible for ensuring that your water is safe to drink. Unlike public drinking water systems serving many people which have experts regularly checking the water quality, no one is looking out for families with their own wells. The US EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Act does not protect private wells. You are responsible for ensuring that the water supplied from your private well is safe to drink and palatable. Managing your water is an ongoing process like managing your health.
The US EPA estimates that 10% of America obtains their drinking water from private wells. In Virginia that number is much higher, 34% of the population is estimated to obtain their drinking water from private groundwater wells. The Master Well Owner Network (MWON) is an organization of trained volunteers dedicated to promoting the proper construction, maintenance, and management of private water systems (wells, springs, and cisterns) in Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, West Virginia, and Virginia. The Cooperative Extension Services in Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia manage the program and have numerous publications and fact sheets that can help homeowners make educated decisions about their drinking water. The volunteers can help homeowners interpret their test results and make educated decisions about what treatment might be appropriate and desirable.
According to the US EPA actual events of groundwater contamination have historically been rare and typically do not occur at levels likely to pose health concerns. City and county health departments have local rules and regulations for the installation of wells. The water well test that was performed when you bought your house or installed your well probably only tested for bacteria and nitrates. Due to its protected location underground, most groundwater is naturally clean and free from pollution. However, not all groundwater is clean and safe it can become polluted.
Before initially using a water well you should completely test the water for contamination. A good start would be the list of primary and secondary contaminants that the US EPA regulates under the Safe Drinking Water Act and pesticides. This would cover total Coliform and E. Coli bacteria, heavy metals, inorganic chemicals, physical factors (like harness, pH, turbidity, etc.), trihalo methanes, volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and common pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. These tests are not cheap, but should not be skipped. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects a contaminant with an acceptable degree of accuracy should be below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act.
Once the initial full test is completed annual testing of solvents and pesticides may not be necessary unless a local problem is identified or a spill occurs. Occasional testing for these substances should still be done. As development in our modern society increases, there are a growing number of activities that can contaminate our drinking water. Increased population density brings more opportunities for nutrients and chemicals from land disposal practices, septic systems, lawn fertilizers, household cleaners and pest treatments to contribute to water pollution. In reality, the nearest ongoing sources of potential contamination to your drinking water supply is your own or your neighbors septic system drain field.
However, all private water wells should be tested every year for total coliform bacteria, and E Coli, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH levels at a minimum. Part of the price of your own water supply is maintaining it and testing it. You can not taste bacterial contamination from human and animal waste and you can not taste nitrate nitrite contamination. Since bacterial contamination cannot be detected by taste, smell, or sight, all drinking water wells should be tested at least annually for Coliform bacteria and E Coli. Due to the extra cost (under $20) most health departments only recommend total coliform testing. Total coliform counts give a general indication of the sanitary condition of a water supply and nothing more. Total coliform includes bacteria that are found in the soil, in water that has been influenced by surface water, and in human or animal waste. Fecal coliform is the group of the total coliform that is considered to be present specifically in the gut and feces of warm-blooded animals. E. coli is considered to be the species of coliform bacteria that is the best indicator of fecal pollution and the possible presence of pathogens. If a sample is positive for coliform bacteria a second test for fecal coliform and E Coli can be performed.
Contamination from human and animal waste and chemicals can be real health hazards and should be addressed immediately. However, most of the water quality issues with private wells are from naturally occurring contamination or impurities. These are contaminants or impurities that are produced from the underlying soil and rock geology. From the underlying rocks radionuclides and heavy metals can enter the groundwater. There are areas with natural occurring arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, selenium and fluoride. While some of the symptoms of mineral contamination are obvious, sometimes one symptom can be confused with another. Never buy a treatment system until you have tested your water fully for all heavy metals and hardness, determined if there is a problem and identified the correct solution. Other contaminants may be present that need to be addressed. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color. The MWON volunteers can help you obtain sampling, and interpret your test results. Do not rely solely on water treatment salespeople for water analysis. The tests they perform are often crude and sometimes misleading. They are selling water treatment.
The US EPA estimates that 10% of America obtains their drinking water from private wells. In Virginia that number is much higher, 34% of the population is estimated to obtain their drinking water from private groundwater wells. The Master Well Owner Network (MWON) is an organization of trained volunteers dedicated to promoting the proper construction, maintenance, and management of private water systems (wells, springs, and cisterns) in Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, West Virginia, and Virginia. The Cooperative Extension Services in Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia and West Virginia manage the program and have numerous publications and fact sheets that can help homeowners make educated decisions about their drinking water. The volunteers can help homeowners interpret their test results and make educated decisions about what treatment might be appropriate and desirable.
According to the US EPA actual events of groundwater contamination have historically been rare and typically do not occur at levels likely to pose health concerns. City and county health departments have local rules and regulations for the installation of wells. The water well test that was performed when you bought your house or installed your well probably only tested for bacteria and nitrates. Due to its protected location underground, most groundwater is naturally clean and free from pollution. However, not all groundwater is clean and safe it can become polluted.
Before initially using a water well you should completely test the water for contamination. A good start would be the list of primary and secondary contaminants that the US EPA regulates under the Safe Drinking Water Act and pesticides. This would cover total Coliform and E. Coli bacteria, heavy metals, inorganic chemicals, physical factors (like harness, pH, turbidity, etc.), trihalo methanes, volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and common pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. These tests are not cheap, but should not be skipped. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects a contaminant with an acceptable degree of accuracy should be below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act.
Once the initial full test is completed annual testing of solvents and pesticides may not be necessary unless a local problem is identified or a spill occurs. Occasional testing for these substances should still be done. As development in our modern society increases, there are a growing number of activities that can contaminate our drinking water. Increased population density brings more opportunities for nutrients and chemicals from land disposal practices, septic systems, lawn fertilizers, household cleaners and pest treatments to contribute to water pollution. In reality, the nearest ongoing sources of potential contamination to your drinking water supply is your own or your neighbors septic system drain field.
However, all private water wells should be tested every year for total coliform bacteria, and E Coli, nitrates, total dissolved solids and pH levels at a minimum. Part of the price of your own water supply is maintaining it and testing it. You can not taste bacterial contamination from human and animal waste and you can not taste nitrate nitrite contamination. Since bacterial contamination cannot be detected by taste, smell, or sight, all drinking water wells should be tested at least annually for Coliform bacteria and E Coli. Due to the extra cost (under $20) most health departments only recommend total coliform testing. Total coliform counts give a general indication of the sanitary condition of a water supply and nothing more. Total coliform includes bacteria that are found in the soil, in water that has been influenced by surface water, and in human or animal waste. Fecal coliform is the group of the total coliform that is considered to be present specifically in the gut and feces of warm-blooded animals. E. coli is considered to be the species of coliform bacteria that is the best indicator of fecal pollution and the possible presence of pathogens. If a sample is positive for coliform bacteria a second test for fecal coliform and E Coli can be performed.
Contamination from human and animal waste and chemicals can be real health hazards and should be addressed immediately. However, most of the water quality issues with private wells are from naturally occurring contamination or impurities. These are contaminants or impurities that are produced from the underlying soil and rock geology. From the underlying rocks radionuclides and heavy metals can enter the groundwater. There are areas with natural occurring arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, selenium and fluoride. While some of the symptoms of mineral contamination are obvious, sometimes one symptom can be confused with another. Never buy a treatment system until you have tested your water fully for all heavy metals and hardness, determined if there is a problem and identified the correct solution. Other contaminants may be present that need to be addressed. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color. The MWON volunteers can help you obtain sampling, and interpret your test results. Do not rely solely on water treatment salespeople for water analysis. The tests they perform are often crude and sometimes misleading. They are selling water treatment.
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Drinking Water Problems with Your Private Well Part 2
Contamination from human and animal waste and chemicals can be real health hazards and should be addressed immediately. However, most of the water quality issues with private wells are from naturally occurring contamination. These are contaminants that are produced from the underlying soil and rock geology and wildlife. From the underlying rocks radionuclides and heavy metals can enter the groundwater. There are areas with natural occurring arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, selenium and fluoride. While some of the symptoms of mineral contamination are obvious, never buy a treatment system until you have tested your water and identified the correct solution. Other contaminants may be present that need to be addressed. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable (relatively) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water.
A lot of the well water in Virginia is hard water (though there are areas where soft water occurs naturally.) Hard water contains minerals, such as calcium, magnesium, and iron. Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can reduce the cleaning action of soaps and detergents and can form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium. My iron content is very low. High iron content can begin to stain your teeth at 0.3 parts per million (ppm), you may also notice brown/orange stains on tubs, inside dishwashers, sinks and laundry. There are simple things to do to address hard water, but with excessive iron you might consider additional treatments.
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a tank containing an ion-exchange material, which takes up the calcium, magnesium and small amounts of dissolved iron from water in exchange for sodium. Conditioning the home water supply with sodium is pleasing to some. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem and may increase the corrosively of the water. Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). Household water treatment services are very profitable because of the monthly bills. Conditioning the water supply may include water softening, iron removal, neutralization of acid water, reverse osmosis, turbidity control, removal of objectionable tastes and odors, and aeration. Water softening and filtering are the most common methods of conditioning well water.
Dissolved iron in the water that is oxidized by air to form iron oxide, causes reddish-brown stains in sinks, toilets, tubs, dishwashers, and dishes. Other symptoms of excessive iron are reddish-brown stains or yellowing of laundry, especially after using chlorine bleach. The iron can cause the water to taste metallic. Brown sediment in standing water would be another symptom. With these indications, the water should be tested for iron to verify the problem and determining type and amount of iron problem, select appropriate iron removal equipment such as chlorinator or and sand filter, high capacity water softener or manganese greensand filter. The correct choice of treatment for iron problems can be complex, depending on the level of iron in the water and the presence of other impurities; do not skip a full water test.
Sometimes iron bacteria are mistaken for iron mineral. Iron bacteria forms a reddish slime on walls of toilet flush tank and reduced water flow. Slimy material suspended in clear water. Iron bacteria, which live on iron in the water and have hardened into scale, can be mistaken by a water treatment sales person for iron. The solution for iron bacteria is to address the bacteria problem. Installing a chlorinator to feed into the well near the pump intake and an activated carbon filter to remove excess chlorine and other objectionable tastes or odors will address iron bacteria. Black stains on sinks, tubs, and laundry are often attributed to iron, but actually that is cause by manganese. Water with high manganese may feel greasy. Manganese (often appears with iron). Iron removal treatments also remove manganese.
Low pH, commonly called acid water; or corrosive water is most common in coal county and areas underlain by Triassic shales or limestone and can often caused by a high concentration of carbon dioxide. Water softeners may increase the corrosiveness of acid water making the situation worse. Low pH water can corrode water pipes. Water dripping from corroded iron or galvanized pipe has a rusty color. Corroded copper or brass pipes cause blue-green stains on plumbing fixtures. Laundry may have red, reddish-brown, or blue-green stains. The water may also have a metallic taste. The acidity level will determine the appropriate treatment such as aeration, soda ash feeder, or neutralizing filter.
Hydrogen sulfide, sulfate reducing bacteria, or sulfur bacteria can cause a rotten egg odor. Copper and silver turn black in the water. Iron, steel, or copper parts of pumps, pipes, and fixtures corroded. Black stains on laundry and porcelain. Black particles in water are indications of this problem. (Note that manganese may also cause black staining on porcelain fixtures.) Compounds such as iron sulfide, calcium sulfide, and sodium sulfide can interfere with hydrogen sulfide removal so multiple treatments may be required test your water to select the appropriate treatment system. Appropriate treatments may include chlorination or aeration followed by filtration through a sand filter.
Objectionable taste or odor other than hydrogen sulfide can be caused by decaying organic matter, pollution from surface drainage, insufficient chlorine being used to disinfect water. Also, there are people who simply do not care for a high mineral content. Install activated carbon filter or automatic chlorinator followed by activated carbon filter. Turbid, cloudy or dirty water, dingy laundry or other similar problem can be caused by silt, sediment, small organisms or organic matter, suspended in the water. These do not need to be addressed unless they are a nuisance. Installing a whole house fiber or a sand filter will address those problem, but will introduce a potential area for creation of other problems if not properly maintained. Coliform bacteria can persist within slime formed by naturally occurring ground water microorganisms. The slime (or biofilm) clings to the well screen, casing, drop pipe, and pump and may even invade filter systems. The pros and cons of each water treatment system should be carefully evaluated before choosing to treat water or selecting a treatment system for you home.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable (relatively) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water.
A lot of the well water in Virginia is hard water (though there are areas where soft water occurs naturally.) Hard water contains minerals, such as calcium, magnesium, and iron. Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can reduce the cleaning action of soaps and detergents and can form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium. My iron content is very low. High iron content can begin to stain your teeth at 0.3 parts per million (ppm), you may also notice brown/orange stains on tubs, inside dishwashers, sinks and laundry. There are simple things to do to address hard water, but with excessive iron you might consider additional treatments.
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a tank containing an ion-exchange material, which takes up the calcium, magnesium and small amounts of dissolved iron from water in exchange for sodium. Conditioning the home water supply with sodium is pleasing to some. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem and may increase the corrosively of the water. Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). Household water treatment services are very profitable because of the monthly bills. Conditioning the water supply may include water softening, iron removal, neutralization of acid water, reverse osmosis, turbidity control, removal of objectionable tastes and odors, and aeration. Water softening and filtering are the most common methods of conditioning well water.
Dissolved iron in the water that is oxidized by air to form iron oxide, causes reddish-brown stains in sinks, toilets, tubs, dishwashers, and dishes. Other symptoms of excessive iron are reddish-brown stains or yellowing of laundry, especially after using chlorine bleach. The iron can cause the water to taste metallic. Brown sediment in standing water would be another symptom. With these indications, the water should be tested for iron to verify the problem and determining type and amount of iron problem, select appropriate iron removal equipment such as chlorinator or and sand filter, high capacity water softener or manganese greensand filter. The correct choice of treatment for iron problems can be complex, depending on the level of iron in the water and the presence of other impurities; do not skip a full water test.
Sometimes iron bacteria are mistaken for iron mineral. Iron bacteria forms a reddish slime on walls of toilet flush tank and reduced water flow. Slimy material suspended in clear water. Iron bacteria, which live on iron in the water and have hardened into scale, can be mistaken by a water treatment sales person for iron. The solution for iron bacteria is to address the bacteria problem. Installing a chlorinator to feed into the well near the pump intake and an activated carbon filter to remove excess chlorine and other objectionable tastes or odors will address iron bacteria. Black stains on sinks, tubs, and laundry are often attributed to iron, but actually that is cause by manganese. Water with high manganese may feel greasy. Manganese (often appears with iron). Iron removal treatments also remove manganese.
Low pH, commonly called acid water; or corrosive water is most common in coal county and areas underlain by Triassic shales or limestone and can often caused by a high concentration of carbon dioxide. Water softeners may increase the corrosiveness of acid water making the situation worse. Low pH water can corrode water pipes. Water dripping from corroded iron or galvanized pipe has a rusty color. Corroded copper or brass pipes cause blue-green stains on plumbing fixtures. Laundry may have red, reddish-brown, or blue-green stains. The water may also have a metallic taste. The acidity level will determine the appropriate treatment such as aeration, soda ash feeder, or neutralizing filter.
Hydrogen sulfide, sulfate reducing bacteria, or sulfur bacteria can cause a rotten egg odor. Copper and silver turn black in the water. Iron, steel, or copper parts of pumps, pipes, and fixtures corroded. Black stains on laundry and porcelain. Black particles in water are indications of this problem. (Note that manganese may also cause black staining on porcelain fixtures.) Compounds such as iron sulfide, calcium sulfide, and sodium sulfide can interfere with hydrogen sulfide removal so multiple treatments may be required test your water to select the appropriate treatment system. Appropriate treatments may include chlorination or aeration followed by filtration through a sand filter.
Objectionable taste or odor other than hydrogen sulfide can be caused by decaying organic matter, pollution from surface drainage, insufficient chlorine being used to disinfect water. Also, there are people who simply do not care for a high mineral content. Install activated carbon filter or automatic chlorinator followed by activated carbon filter. Turbid, cloudy or dirty water, dingy laundry or other similar problem can be caused by silt, sediment, small organisms or organic matter, suspended in the water. These do not need to be addressed unless they are a nuisance. Installing a whole house fiber or a sand filter will address those problem, but will introduce a potential area for creation of other problems if not properly maintained. Coliform bacteria can persist within slime formed by naturally occurring ground water microorganisms. The slime (or biofilm) clings to the well screen, casing, drop pipe, and pump and may even invade filter systems. The pros and cons of each water treatment system should be carefully evaluated before choosing to treat water or selecting a treatment system for you home.
Friday, June 5, 2009
My Water Test Results and Hard Water
Water is the fluid of life. The water I drink comes from a private domestic well drawing from the ground water beneath my land. Ground water is the world's largest source of fresh water. Scientists estimate the amount of ground water is 400 times greater than all the fresh water in lakes, reservoirs, streams, and rivers. All water, on the earth's surface and beneath the surface, moves through the hydrologic cycle: Precipitation falls on land; some water evaporates and returns to the atmosphere, some flows to streams and rivers, and some seeps into the soil. Water not used by plants and their root systems move deeper into the ground, downward through cracks, into empty spaces or pores in the soil, sand, and rocks layers until the water reaches an impermeable layer of rock. The water then fills the voids above the rock layer. The top of the water in the soil, sand, or rocks is called the water table and the water that fills the empty spaces is called ground water.
I take seriously my duty as care taker of a portion of the watershed. Part of that is the care and monitoring of my private domestic well, the source of my own water supply. One of the precautionary steps I take is to test my water annually, though in the Commonwealth of Virginia this is not required. The annual water analysis just came back for my well. I had my water tested for total Coliform bacteria at my local laboratory and had the WaterCheck with pesticides analysis performed at National Testing Laboratories, Ltd.
Private wells are usually only tested for total Coliform bacteria and fecal Coliform bacteria. Coliform bacteria live in the intestine of warm-blooded animals and serve as an indication of other bacterial problems. Testing for Coliform bacteria is easier and less expensive than testing for specific, disease-causing microorganisms. Coliform bacteria itself is rather harmless, but are indicators that the water supply is contaminated and that disease-causing bacteria may be present. Coliform bacteria can be an indication of contaminated surface water entering the well or water delivery system or the result of a faulty septic system. Fecal Coliform bacteria indicate contamination by human or animal waste. It is unacceptable for fecal Coliform bacteria to be present in any concentration.
There are treatments for contamination, but I prefer my water pure and unadulterated. So, I was pleased to receive the report of:
ABSENT for Total Coliform Bacteria
ABSENT for Fecal Coliform Bacteria
If you do have a bacterial problem, fix it. There are four types of water treatment that can be easily and inexpensively used to remove bacteria. They are chlorination, ozonation, ultraviolet light, and heat. Chlorination is the most commonly used means of disinfection in private water systems. High chlorine concentrations can have objectionable tastes and odors, and even low chlorine concentrations react with some organic compounds to produce strong, unpleasant tastes and odors. To eliminate the excessive amounts of chlorine, the water is then dechlorinated. Activated carbon filters are the most common devices used to dechlorinate water, remove objectionable chlorine tastes, and reduce corrosion of plumbing systems. In addition to removing taste and odor problems, granular activated carbon absorption is a good method to remove other impurities including some pesticide residues, and radon.
In addition to bacteria that may exist in domestic water supplies, other contaminants may be present including minerals, chemicals or metals that occur naturally in the soil or enter ground water as a result of human activities. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable (relatively) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water. The WaterCheck with Pesticides test results showed only detectable levels of calcium, magnesium, silica, sodium zinc. My water is slightly more than moderately hard, meaning, in my case, that calcium carbonate is present at 170 mg/l. All other substance tested for were non-detect.
Hard water contains minerals, such as calcium, magnesium, and iron. Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can reduce the cleaning action of soaps and detergents and can form a scale (limescale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium. My iron content is very low. High iron content can begin to stain your teeth at 0.3 parts per million (ppm), You may also notice brown/orange stains on tubs, inside dishwashers, sinks and laundry. The simple things to do to address hard water are:
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a tank containing an ion-exchange material, which takes up the calcium, magnesium and small amounts of dissolved iron from water in exchange for sodium. Conditioning the home water supply with sodium is pleasing to some. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem. Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). Household water treatment services are very profitable because of the monthly bills. Conditioning the water supply may include water softening, iron removal, neutralization of acid water, reverse osmosis, turbidity control, removal of objectionable tastes and odors, and aeration. Water softening and filtering are the most common methods of conditioning well water.
Rather than start playing around with my drinking water, adding chlorine, filtering, adding sodium, I prefer to drink clean natural water. I purchased a home with water I found acceptable in its natural state. I spent the money up front to test (and taste) the water. Annually, I spend the money and test my water to ensure that the water we drink is still beautifully clean ground water fresh from my well.
I take seriously my duty as care taker of a portion of the watershed. Part of that is the care and monitoring of my private domestic well, the source of my own water supply. One of the precautionary steps I take is to test my water annually, though in the Commonwealth of Virginia this is not required. The annual water analysis just came back for my well. I had my water tested for total Coliform bacteria at my local laboratory and had the WaterCheck with pesticides analysis performed at National Testing Laboratories, Ltd.
Private wells are usually only tested for total Coliform bacteria and fecal Coliform bacteria. Coliform bacteria live in the intestine of warm-blooded animals and serve as an indication of other bacterial problems. Testing for Coliform bacteria is easier and less expensive than testing for specific, disease-causing microorganisms. Coliform bacteria itself is rather harmless, but are indicators that the water supply is contaminated and that disease-causing bacteria may be present. Coliform bacteria can be an indication of contaminated surface water entering the well or water delivery system or the result of a faulty septic system. Fecal Coliform bacteria indicate contamination by human or animal waste. It is unacceptable for fecal Coliform bacteria to be present in any concentration.
There are treatments for contamination, but I prefer my water pure and unadulterated. So, I was pleased to receive the report of:
ABSENT for Total Coliform Bacteria
ABSENT for Fecal Coliform Bacteria
If you do have a bacterial problem, fix it. There are four types of water treatment that can be easily and inexpensively used to remove bacteria. They are chlorination, ozonation, ultraviolet light, and heat. Chlorination is the most commonly used means of disinfection in private water systems. High chlorine concentrations can have objectionable tastes and odors, and even low chlorine concentrations react with some organic compounds to produce strong, unpleasant tastes and odors. To eliminate the excessive amounts of chlorine, the water is then dechlorinated. Activated carbon filters are the most common devices used to dechlorinate water, remove objectionable chlorine tastes, and reduce corrosion of plumbing systems. In addition to removing taste and odor problems, granular activated carbon absorption is a good method to remove other impurities including some pesticide residues, and radon.
In addition to bacteria that may exist in domestic water supplies, other contaminants may be present including minerals, chemicals or metals that occur naturally in the soil or enter ground water as a result of human activities. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable (relatively) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water. The WaterCheck with Pesticides test results showed only detectable levels of calcium, magnesium, silica, sodium zinc. My water is slightly more than moderately hard, meaning, in my case, that calcium carbonate is present at 170 mg/l. All other substance tested for were non-detect.
Hard water contains minerals, such as calcium, magnesium, and iron. Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can reduce the cleaning action of soaps and detergents and can form a scale (limescale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium. My iron content is very low. High iron content can begin to stain your teeth at 0.3 parts per million (ppm), You may also notice brown/orange stains on tubs, inside dishwashers, sinks and laundry. The simple things to do to address hard water are:
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a tank containing an ion-exchange material, which takes up the calcium, magnesium and small amounts of dissolved iron from water in exchange for sodium. Conditioning the home water supply with sodium is pleasing to some. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem. Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). Household water treatment services are very profitable because of the monthly bills. Conditioning the water supply may include water softening, iron removal, neutralization of acid water, reverse osmosis, turbidity control, removal of objectionable tastes and odors, and aeration. Water softening and filtering are the most common methods of conditioning well water.
Rather than start playing around with my drinking water, adding chlorine, filtering, adding sodium, I prefer to drink clean natural water. I purchased a home with water I found acceptable in its natural state. I spent the money up front to test (and taste) the water. Annually, I spend the money and test my water to ensure that the water we drink is still beautifully clean ground water fresh from my well.
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