Lots of things have changed since this house was built in
2004 (with builder grade system). First of all an air heat pump is usually a
split heat-pump systems consisting of two parts: an indoor (coil) unit and an
outdoor (condensing) unit. Both units are designed to work together. Heat-pump systems manufactured today, by law,
must have a seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) of 13 or higher while my
heat pump has a SEER of 12 and a HSPF less than 8. Seasonal Energy Efficiency
Rating (SEER) or Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) for heat pump
systems are the efficiency ratings on heat pumps, the higher the SEER/HSPF, the
more efficient the equipment. The SEER is measured in average Btu output over
the season divided by the watt hours and is the standard measure of energy use
efficiency. The Air Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI),
defines the method to measure SEER. AHRI was formed in 2008 by a merger of the
American Refrigerant Institute and the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association.
Generally, the higher the SEER/HSPF of a unit, the higher the initial cost and
lower the operating cost. For these new, high-efficiency systems to work
properly, the outdoor unit and indoor unit must be perfectly matched, properly
sized and correctly ducted to deliver the right air flow.
New Energy Star certified air heat pumps have minimum
requirements of a 14.5 SEER, 8.2 HSPF and 12 EER or higher. Air heat pumps are
available with Up to 20.5 SEER; and
Up to 13 HSPF.
Two-stage or variable cooling makes this possible. The heat pump has a compressor with two or
more levels of operation: high for hot summer days and low for milder days. Since
the low settings are adequate to meet household-cooling demands on all but the
hottest days, a multi-stage unit runs for longer periods and produces more even
temperatures. Longer cooling run cycles allows a two-stage or multi stage heat
pump to remove more moisture from the air and allows you to size the unit for
the hottest day capacity without reducing efficiency. The indoor air handler (the
fan) provides the energy to move air through the ductwork to the rooms of your
house. The high efficiency units also have a variable speed motor that automatically
changes speed based on air flow requirements to maintain temperature settings
to eliminate the on/off cycling of the blower.
To properly size a system for a home there is Manual J
from the Air Conditioning Contractors of America, ACCA. In truth what there
really is are several computer models and an iPhone app available that does the
calculations for you. The only problems is the input factors that impact the
calculation include the climate; the size, shape and orientation of the house;
the home's air leakage rate; the amount of insulation installed; the window
areas, window orientations, and glazing specifications; the type of lighting
and major home appliances; and the number of the occupants. Slight variations
in the input assumptions get different results. In the model I played with,
baseline inputs were available based on square footage, orientation, age of
home and zip code and then adjustments could be made. The results were no
better than my back of the envelope calculation, but I know my house, the
square footage, orientation, the additional insulation and window films I
installed and I figure that the heat pumps should be around 3.675 ton. My existing heat pump turns out to be 3.5 ton.
Once the temperature reached 90 degrees
in Virginia the heat pump ran continuously and could not keep the master bedroom
or the bonus room cool and is probably one of the reasons why I am replacing an
8 year old system. The high efficiency two-stage or multiple stage heat pump
allows me to oversize the unit slightly so that it can handle the hottest days
without sacrificing optimal performance on more temperate days so the old rule that
if a system is over sized, the system will cycle on and off too frequently,
greatly reducing its ability to control humidity and its efficiency is no
longer strictly true. If you are going with a multiple stage system round up.
An essential element to the efficient and effective
heating and cooling of your home is the duct system, and there is the Manual D
by ACCA intended to ensure a good design. Many homes built after 2000 have flexible ducting and this could be a problem in the performance of your system. ASHRAE,
founded in 1894, is the leader in research focused on building systems, energy
efficiency, indoor air quality and sustainability. ASHRAE sponsors research a various universities to advance the sciences of heating, ventilating, air conditioning and sponsored a series of studies between 2002 and 2006 that found that the airflow
loss in flexible ducting in real world installations was 9-10 times the loss
anticipated in the 1999 design standard used in Manual D in most homes built
during the last building boom. In addition, the experimental results they also found
that with compression ratios exceeding 4% (the minimum compression found in the
real world), the duct performance varies considerably with slight variations in
the installation. A low skilled, inexperienced or sloppy worker does a poor job
that will impact the performance of your system.
The ducts in my well insulated attic |
An examination of my ducts in the attic found a poorly
executed installation. I should not be surprised since several of the ducts
were not properly attached to the distribution boxes when we first bought the
home from the lender. I had the ducts sealed when I added additional insulation
to the home. The flexible ducts in my attic are R-6 with a black vapor barrier.
The flexible ducts consist of three layers an inner core of a metal helix
encased in a plastic or foil film, and insulation layer and the outer vapor
barrier jacket. While fully extended properly installed flexible duct can be as
good at maintaining air pressure as a galvanized steel duct, performance deteriorates
as the ducts sag. In all the real world tests there was some degree of
compression or sag (more than anticipated) even in good installations. In poor
installations there were sharp bends, excess lengths and significant
restrictions due to squishing the duct into tight spaces. When the flexible
ducts are compressed (or sagging) the inner layer crumples (it is a soft
spring) and the helix pops out. Instead of smooth circular tube the flexible
duct turns into a bumpy pathway for the air that causes turbulent flow and very
significant pressure drop from the beginning to the end of the duct. In my
case, almost no air flow in the bonus room. The scientists at Berkeley Livermore Laboratory and Texas A & M found this effect to be orders of magnitude
above the range provided in the ASHRAE design standards. The reason the drop
was so great is that the ducts operate at very low pressure and small
resistance due to fitting or duct friction can have a very big impact on flow. The
scientists calculated pressure drop correction equations so that systems
designer could correct for this effect.
We need to replace our 15 year old heat pump and are considering a 2 stage. We live in Phoenix AZ and will need the high speed often. One HVAC salesman said we can't use our existing galvanized trunk ducts from 1977 because they won't all enough pressure to be created for system to drop to slow speed. Does that sound right to you?
ReplyDeleteA technicians tool to estimate your ducts is a tool called a duckulator. This video by Tad could give you a way to estimate what you need. There is an app you can put on your phone. I used it backwards to redesign my ducks to to up my tonnage a bit. Get another proposal. You might want to consider a variable stage.
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Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLZzXtnrZuc this is a good explanation. You can redesign your ducts by utilizing the trunk line and changing the laterals. I find a rigid trunk works best to deliver consistent air flow. Do not be talked into a daisy chain flexible duct system.
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