Checklist for Spring

To be a good homeowner is work. A home needs to be maintained, so every spring there are certain inspections and routine maintenance and cleanup that need to be done. Here is my list for Spring. If you have things I've missed, send them along and I will include them. 

1. Garden Cleanup and mulch and tree service.
2. HVAC inspection and service. Replace filters, test refrigerant levels, clean units and inspect condition of equipment. It’s best to know if your AC is working before it gets hot.
3. Septic inspection (AOSS annually) Pump out standard septic every 3-5 years
4. Water well testing and inspection (chlorinate as necessary)
5. Termite trap monitoring and pest control
6. Make sure exterior is sealed against mice
7. Test sump pumps, Drain hot water heater and Snake septic line
8. Turn on spigots, check hoses
9. Generator service (check battery, switch and gas line)
10. Power-wash house, deck, and patio
11. Deck and railing inspection and repair as necessary. Make sure all boards and railing are sound and tightly attached.
12. Clean and test grill. Make sure there is propane and the ignitor works.
13. Repair any damaged screens
14. Test smoke /CO2 detectors and replace batteries.
15. Inspect exterior paint and caulking condition. Repair and repaint as necessary.
16. Deep clean tile floors
17. Shampoo rugs
18. Clean windows
19. Clean out and sweep garage. Wash garage floor.

Garden Cleanup and mulch. Tree service. Each spring I prepare my garden for summer, deadhead some of perennials (which maybe I should have done al little more aggressively last winter), cleanup the dead leaves and remove any dead plants. My ash trees remain under stress from the emerald ash borer and my plum trees that were pulled out of the ground in a tornado two years ago may be dying. Now that the garden is mulched and trimmed back, an arborest is coming by next week to examine the health of my stressed trees and help decide the proper course of action. I have been trying to create a garden along the principals of green-scaping. I am expanding the plantings in my garden, adding a few more trees and shrubs each year, replacing the losses and learning the principals and practices of green scaping and organic gardening. The EPA calls green scaping “the easy way to a greener, healthier yard,” but it really seems more challenging than they indicate. Gardening is work. In the spirit of full disclosure the spring cleanup, edging, enlarging a bed, hauling in the compost, and mulching has taken 36 man hours so far only about 4 of them mine.

Heating and Cooling equipment inspection and service. Despite the fact that my heat pump system is 7 years old and heat pumps should last 14 years, the evaporator coil corroded and had begun to leak. The blower unit is in the attic above the master bath. On a particularly hot day a couple of weeks ago I turned the heat pump to air conditioning and the upstairs cooled quickly. However, I thought I smelled something sweet. The refrigerant, R410a, that replaced R 22 has a sweet chloroform smell. I called my HVAC service company. The corrosion of the coil was obvious upon inspection, but the refrigerant level was barely below normal, so the leak was small. My technician checked and found that the coil was still under warrantee (though not the labor or refrigerant) and in stock. The next day (after removing the refrigerant), they installed the Carrier Infinity series replacement coil. This one is entirely made of aluminum, so hopefully will last longer. The system was recharged and worked great. The coil was just starting to leak (shinny oily patches), but looked terrible.

Septic inspection. The average lifespan of a septic system is 15 to 40 years, but it can last longer if properly maintained and frequently pumped. A traditional septic system should be inspected every three to five years by a septic system service provider; and an alternative septic system (called an AOSS) must be inspected at least every year in Virginia. My AOSS needs to be inspected each year, have the filter cleaned and replace any worn or broken parts as needed. Over the past 12 years, I've had to replace three blowers, install a new float gauge, and install two new zoners. The pump is nearing its expected life, so that's probably next. We’ll see what the service company says when they get here.

Inspect and test your well. The well casing should extend at least 12 inches above the ground surface and should not have any cracks or holes, but the pipe is rusting. The well should have a sanitary well cap that is securely attached to the well casing. One of the bolts on my sanitary well cap has been sheered. There are two types of pumps: a jet pump that is above ground and a submersible pump in the well. Jet pumps are only used on shallow wells that you do not want, so the pump should be submerged in the well. Make sure you know the age of the pump- submersible pumps are designed to last about 17 years with normal household use. The pressure tank and wiring should be examined for age and damage. My well is 14 ½ years old so I am beginning to think about refurbishing the well. In the next few years I plan to replace the pump, pressure tank and pressure switch and the pipe between the well to the house, check the pitless adaptor, and replace the well cap. Every couple of years I chlorinate the well to knock back the iron bacteria and clean the rust off the well pipe.

Our PrinceWilliam Rural Household Water Quality water clinics test for: iron, manganese, nitrate, lead, arsenic, fluoride, sulfate, pH, total dissolved solids, hardness, sodium, copper, total coliform bacteria and E. Coli bacteria each spring. This is a good list to test for and the analysis is subsidized by Virginia Tech. Since I assist in giving the clinic, I test my own water every year. If you have water treatment equipment in the house test both before and after the treatment equipment to understand the quality of the water, if treatment is necessary and if the water treatment equipment is working properly. You are responsible for providing clean and safe water to your family.

Termite trap monitoring and pest control. Termites have been a part of the ecosystem for thousands of years and aid in the decomposition of wood, freeing the nutrients in the decaying material for reuse by other organisms. Termites rely on eating the cellulose found in nature, wooden structures, furniture, stored food and paper. It is virtually impossible to reside anywhere in the United States without confronting termites at one point or another. Termites will attack any material with cellulose, including wood, paper coated wall board, and paper. Termites also require water. Wood that is at least 30% water saturated provides enough moisture. Additionally, termites will find free-standing water such as condensation, rain or plumbing leaks and use this moisture as their main source for survival.

Building codes require that a construction site be pretreated for termites. Proper construction techniques, such as isolating wood from the soil, elimination and prevention of moisture and the use of physical barriers such as crushed glass, basalt, granite, quartz or silica sand can prevent termite attacks. The treatment options for termites are bating for control of the perimeter with spot treatment both inside and out and traditional chemical barriers. Since I have a well, I prefer the low chemical method and use a baiting system with spot treatment. This requires bi-monthly monitoring of the bating stations and a pest control contract. Also, every few years I have my home inspected by a dog trained to identify termites.

Test sump pumps, Drain hot water heater and Snake septic line. Keeping moisture out of our house is important for pest control and preventing structural damage. Sump pumps have a limited life and require power to operate. My sump pumps are connected to my whole house generator, but there are models with battery back-up. Make sure to test the functioning of the pump (pour a bucket of water in the sump and see if it turns on) and the battery- replace the battery every few years. While you are testing the sump pump, drain your hot water heater to get rid of hard water minerals that have fallen out of solution. Also, the speed that a hot water heater drains is an indication of the level of mineral build up in the tank. Finally, I have a long line from the basement bathroom to the septic line that exits the house. I have this line snaked out every spring to keep the line clear and avoid unpleasant surprises . While I’m at it I soak all my shower heads in hot water and vinegar and run the dishwasher and washing machine on a cycle with vinegar to clean them out.

Generator service. Twelve years ago when we first bought this house, I had a Guardian 16 kilowatt automatic generator manufactured by Generac installed as part of our emergency planning. When the power to the house is cut, the generator automatically kicks in to power most of the house in under 20 seconds. The generator runs on liquid propane from a tank buried in my yard that also powers my hot water heater, backup furnace, fireplace, gas grill and stove. The generator can supply the house for 23 or more days depending on whether the gas furnace is running. (Note that if the generator runs more than a few days it will need oil.) The generator powers the well, septic, sump pumps, elevator, refrigerators and freezer, the cable and high speed internet and most, but not all, of the house. Like all motors the generator should have annual service and have its battery replaced every few years. Also, it is a good idea to keep and eye on the propane tank level.

Smoke Detectors. Change the batteries in your smoke detectors at least every year, but it may also be time to replace the smoke detectors. Combined smoke and CO2 detectors should be replace ever 7 years and standard smoke detectors should be replaced every 10 years.According to the Fire-protection association smoke detectors’ sensitivity to smoke tends to change over time. Sometimes becoming more sensitive and causing more nuisance alarms, sometimes becoming less sensitive and not alarming. Replace your smoke detectors every 10 years because that provides a reasonable margin of safety and after that time their sensors can begin to lose sensitivity. The test button you have been dutifully pressing each year only confirms that the battery, electronics, and alert system are working; it doesn’t mean that the smoke sensor is working. To really test the sensor, you need to use an aerosol can of smoke alarm test spray that simulates smoke.