In many parts of the country groundwater contains high levels of dissolved minerals and is commonly referred to as hard. Groundwater very slowly wears away at the rocks and minerals picking up small amounts of minerals and metals that can be a nuisance in elevated concentrations, but in small enough quantities improves the taste of water. Calcium and magnesium ions are the minerals that make water hard. Water contains traces of minerals that are essential for human health. Though research has found conflicting results relating the mineral content of water to the risk of cardiovascular disease, the majority of studies indicate the lowest risk when minerals in water are highest and highest cardiovascular risk when the water is soft.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, and magnesium per liter of water (ppm) or 7 grains per gallon can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. (Some label water hard at 100 ppm.) Certainly, concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter (10.5 grains per gallon) is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, there are observed impacts in our homes. Bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. The minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly).
Many can live with the water spots and soap scum issues by adding vinegar to dishwashers and using hard water formulated shampoos, but are induced to treat their water because of the potential impacts on plumbing and appliances. When heated, calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, metal hot water pipes, dishwashers and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life. However, softened water increases the potential for leaching heavy metal from pipes, solder, and plumbing fixtures. Increased levels of copper, lead, zinc, and cadmium are found in soft water, particularly when it stands overnight in the plumbing system.
The classic water softening is an ion exchange system consisting of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water supply pipe is connected to the mineral tank so that water coming into the house must pass through the tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions (along with small amounts of other minerals) are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium is often used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water, thus the taste and potential health impacts that requires bypassing the kitchen sink or additional treatment.
Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank this occurs two or three times a week and consumes 20-30 gallons of water. Sodium is typically used in the brine tank, but potassium can also be used. The excess sodium solution carrying the calcium and magnesium is typically flushed to the septic system. The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem for humans, the septic system and the environment. Softened water is not recommended for watering plants, lawns, and gardens due to its sodium and chlorine content. Water used in recharging a water softener is discharged into the septic tank and soil absorption field if you have a septic system. Otherwise a separate holding tank or discharge, which could be emptied by a vacuum truck would have to be installed into the plumbing system.
Salt water is heavier than fresh water and interferes with the passive functioning of the septic tank. The salt water sinks to the bottom of the tank occupying space that is designed for the settling of heavier solids interfering with the proper formation of layers in the tank and driving the solids and grease into the drainfield. In addition, while some studies have shown that sodium does not interfere with bacterial action in ATU tanks in alternative septic systems, David Pask, Senior Engineering Scientist of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse has seen septic distribution pipes plugged with a “noxious fibrous mass” that was grease and cellulose from toilet paper that only occurred in homes with water softening systems. He felt the brine in the conventional septic tank had interfered with the digestion of the cellulose fibers and might be carried over into the septic systems drain field. Field practitioners reported to the Small Flows Clearinghouse negative impact from water softening regeneration brines. A study involving two adjacent septic field dispersal systems in a shared mound have shown that the trenches that received the septic effluent with water softener brine discharges formed a thick, gelatinous slime layer that clogged the infiltrating surface, while the trenches receiving no salt water discharge remained open with a normal microbial clogging layer.
All of the salt that is released into the septic system and ultimately the leach field and groundwater can impact the ecology. According to the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency, chloride concentration above 180 mg/L interferes with nitrogen fixation in the environment. Chloride concentration in the regeneration discharge can reach into the 10,000 mg/L and sodium concentration can reach 6,000 mg/L. According to Orenco Systems a field study of 18 on-site wastewater treatment systems in Virginia clearly showed that nitrogen removal was inhibited in systems receiving water softener backwash brine.
To solve the taste problem or health concerns associated with drinking softened water reverse osmosis systems are often sold as an accessory item when a whole house water softener is installed or for other actual or imagined problems without proper testing. Waste water from household systems is typically connected to the house drains and will add to the load on the household septic system. This is a significant additional water use and load to the septic system and could impact the life and functioning of your septic system and well since a 5 gallon a day reverse osmosis system might waste 90 gallons a day. The principal uses of reverse osmosis in are for the reduction of high levels of nitrate, lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, sulfate, sodium and total dissolved solids.
No treatment is without consequences and an inappropriate treatment could create other problems without providing any measurable benefit. Before considering purchasing any treatment system test your water yourself to get a full picture of the nature of your water supply. Never purchase a water treatment system without first fully testing your water for at least iron, manganese, nitrate, lead, arsenic, fluoride, sulfate, pH, total dissolved solids, hardness, sodium, copper, total coliform bacteria and E. Coli bacteria, appearance, taste and anything else of local concern. (Prince William County is holding a subsidized water clinic on March 31, 2014.)
Personally, I did extensive water testing on my well before I purchased the home to ensure that I could live with the well water without further treatment. This does not guarantee me a lifetime of problem free well water since groundwater is a dynamic system that can vary over time and wells age and do die, but it is a start. If you must soften your water, potassium chloride can be used instead of sodium chloride in a typical water softener. Potassium chloride works exactly the same way that sodium chloride does in the softening process and the potassium chloride reduces the amount of sodium in drinking water, the potassium in the treated water is a necessary mineral and it eliminates the excess sodium in the septic system, drain field and released into the environment, but not the chloride problem. The impact of potassium chloride on septic systems has not been studied. Potassium chloride costs much more than sodium chloride. A forty pound bag of pellets costs about $40 for Potassium chloride and under $8 for sodium chloride.
One final note, though magnetic water softening is sold, according to research done at Purdue University in the 1990’s this method of water conditioning was not effective. Mike R. Powell, P.E., author of an exhaustive discussion of the research relating to magnetic water treatment entitled “Magnetic Water and Fuel Treatment: Myth, Magic, or Mainstream Science?” states “Much of the available laboratory test data imply that magnetic water treatment devices are largely ineffective, yet reports of positive results in industrial settings persist ….” “Consumer Reports magazine tested a … magnetic water treatment device…. Two electric water heaters were installed in the home of one of the Consumer Reports staffers. The hard water (200 ppm) entering one of the heaters was first passed through the magnetic treatment device. The second water heater received untreated water. The water heaters were cut open after more than two years and after more than 10,000 gallons of water were heated by each heater. The tanks were found to contain the same quantity and texture of scale. Consumer Reports concluded that the … unit was ineffective.” I called Consumer Reports to obtain a copy of the article and permission to cite it.. The full 280 word article can be found in the February 1996 volume of Consumer Reports on page 8. It appears that bottom line is, don’t waste your money on magnetic water treatment.
Showing posts with label water softeners. Show all posts
Showing posts with label water softeners. Show all posts
Thursday, November 21, 2013
Monday, May 2, 2011
Residue from the Dishwasher –VAMWON Notes from the Field
VAMWON Notes from the Field are a series of stories of the questions and sometimes the solutions I’ve encountered as a volunteer with VAMWON. The Virginia Master Well Owner Network (VAMWON) is an organization of trained volunteers and extension agents dedicated to promoting the proper construction, maintenance, and management of private water systems (wells, springs, and cisterns) in Virginia. The Cooperative Extension Services in Virginia manages the program and have numerous publications and fact sheets that can help homeowners make educated decisions about their drinking water. The VAMWON volunteer or Agent can help you identify problems with the water system and provide information on suggested treatments options and other solutions. You can find your VAMWON volunteer neighbor through this link by entering your county in the search box.
Below is an email I received (my contact information is available through the VAMWON web site).
“I have another mystery, if you are agreeable to finding another solution. For several years, I have noticed that when I drink water out of my glassware, the water smelled "dusty"....which I assumed was the residue from the dishwasher detergent. I would try at different times to solve this problem by rinsing an extra cycle, or minimizing the amount of detergent. I am down to two tablespoons now. The dishes still get clean, but the smell persists.
(1) I assume this is not a dangerous occurrence.
(2) Is there another test that we should have included in our sample that we will take this week ...? “
The homeowner had just forwarded to me the analysis results from their most recent water testing. The homeowners have three grandchildren under the age of 3 year’s old living in their home so they have been testing their water regularly using the WaterCheck package available from National Testing Laboratories, Ltd. If your home drinking water is supplied from a private well, you are responsible for ensuring that your water is safe to drink. There are no requirements to sample and sample analysis can be quite expensive depending on what analyses are performed. The homeowner is responsible for paying for the sampling.
In the past the homeowner had told me that they had high iron and hard water and a treatment system, but the test results showed low iron and manganese and water that were not particularly hard. I questioned where the sample was taken and the homeowner assured me that they took the water sample from the back outside water spigot (after properly cleaning it) that is after the simple sediment filter but before the water softener. The water treatment company they consulted had reportedly tested their water and found high iron when they sold them the water treatment system that apparently consisted of a whole house fiber filter and a water softening system.
I was a little puzzled by the results and I had asked the homeowner to check their toilet tanks for a red or rust colored slime. They found no slime in any of the toilets, but did find a small amount of sediment in the bottom of each toilet that is a rusty red color and clouds up the water when swirled with a toilet brush. They also found a bit of milky colored substances around the black gasket that the flapper on multiple toilets. When she scratched off a bit with her fingernail, it floated up like tiny pieces of “corn starch.
What she described sounded like a precipitate (calcium carbonate, sodium chloride) its white color would indicate few impurities, minerals and impurities tend to add color to precipitates. Though it is possible that the water treatment company performed a coagulation test, but most people are honest though their test are often very limited in scope. Considering the problem assuming the water treatment company actually found iron before they sold the homeowner a treatment system and now the water tests were non-detect for iron I realized there could be a simple explanation given where the sample was taken. Particulate or colloidal (Ferric iron (Fe3+)) may be the form of iron present in the water supply. This form of iron appears as particulates in the oxidized form. Particles in suspension in the tap water result in water that has rust, red or yellow color when the particles settle.
One of the recommended treatments for iron is aeration followed by filtration – This method is effective for treating iron and manganese with a combined concentration of between 5 and 10 ppm. Air is mixed with passing water to oxidize the iron and/or manganese producing particles that can then be filtered out of the water by a fiber filter. When water leaves the well it is exposed to air that can have this effect depending on the flow rate and holding times in the system. The water then passes through a filter to screen out particles of iron and/or manganese. An oxidizing filter treatment system is the next level of filtration. It is effective in treating iron and manganese at combined concentrations of up to 15 mg/L. Because oxidizing filter units combine oxidation and filtration, they can be used to treat water with dissolved and/or particulate iron and manganese.
It appeared that the filter on the homeowners system was doing a decent job of removing the iron oxide particles. The more oxygen the water is exposed to before the filter, the better it works. So when the pump is working full out, there is less time for oxygenation in your pressure tank and your filter will be less effective. Retesting the water supply ahead of the filter could confirm this, but would be an additional cost. The effectiveness of the installed water softening system for iron removal is very limited. Iron and manganese present in combined concentrations of 5 ppm or less can usually be removed by using an ion exchange water softener. However, this is not an optimal removal method.
As for hard water, some University extension offices designate 125 ppm as the cut off for hard water others use 100 ppm. No matter which standard you use 120 ppm the level present in their water is only marginally hard. My own water is significantly harder and I do not treat. I just use detergent based soaps and lots of vinegar to treat the limescale. I just assume my hot water heater will be a short lifer. In addition, the water softening system might impact the life of your septic system. The salt reportedly reduces the life of the septic tank (www.watersystemscouncil.org ) and may impact the peat medium and soil in the drainage area. Also, softening can make your water slightly acidic and in that way reduce the life of all your fixtures. So softening becomes a trade off and is best only used if you prefer a slightly salty water residue. I believed that the residue on the dishes might be simply salt and suggested they try turning off their softener.
The homeowner chose to turn off their iron exchange water and found that the “dusty smell” and residue on the glasses disappeared. In addition, she claims to be much happier with the “feel” of the hard water.
Below is an email I received (my contact information is available through the VAMWON web site).
“I have another mystery, if you are agreeable to finding another solution. For several years, I have noticed that when I drink water out of my glassware, the water smelled "dusty"....which I assumed was the residue from the dishwasher detergent. I would try at different times to solve this problem by rinsing an extra cycle, or minimizing the amount of detergent. I am down to two tablespoons now. The dishes still get clean, but the smell persists.
(1) I assume this is not a dangerous occurrence.
(2) Is there another test that we should have included in our sample that we will take this week ...? “
The homeowner had just forwarded to me the analysis results from their most recent water testing. The homeowners have three grandchildren under the age of 3 year’s old living in their home so they have been testing their water regularly using the WaterCheck package available from National Testing Laboratories, Ltd. If your home drinking water is supplied from a private well, you are responsible for ensuring that your water is safe to drink. There are no requirements to sample and sample analysis can be quite expensive depending on what analyses are performed. The homeowner is responsible for paying for the sampling.
In the past the homeowner had told me that they had high iron and hard water and a treatment system, but the test results showed low iron and manganese and water that were not particularly hard. I questioned where the sample was taken and the homeowner assured me that they took the water sample from the back outside water spigot (after properly cleaning it) that is after the simple sediment filter but before the water softener. The water treatment company they consulted had reportedly tested their water and found high iron when they sold them the water treatment system that apparently consisted of a whole house fiber filter and a water softening system.
I was a little puzzled by the results and I had asked the homeowner to check their toilet tanks for a red or rust colored slime. They found no slime in any of the toilets, but did find a small amount of sediment in the bottom of each toilet that is a rusty red color and clouds up the water when swirled with a toilet brush. They also found a bit of milky colored substances around the black gasket that the flapper on multiple toilets. When she scratched off a bit with her fingernail, it floated up like tiny pieces of “corn starch.
What she described sounded like a precipitate (calcium carbonate, sodium chloride) its white color would indicate few impurities, minerals and impurities tend to add color to precipitates. Though it is possible that the water treatment company performed a coagulation test, but most people are honest though their test are often very limited in scope. Considering the problem assuming the water treatment company actually found iron before they sold the homeowner a treatment system and now the water tests were non-detect for iron I realized there could be a simple explanation given where the sample was taken. Particulate or colloidal (Ferric iron (Fe3+)) may be the form of iron present in the water supply. This form of iron appears as particulates in the oxidized form. Particles in suspension in the tap water result in water that has rust, red or yellow color when the particles settle.
One of the recommended treatments for iron is aeration followed by filtration – This method is effective for treating iron and manganese with a combined concentration of between 5 and 10 ppm. Air is mixed with passing water to oxidize the iron and/or manganese producing particles that can then be filtered out of the water by a fiber filter. When water leaves the well it is exposed to air that can have this effect depending on the flow rate and holding times in the system. The water then passes through a filter to screen out particles of iron and/or manganese. An oxidizing filter treatment system is the next level of filtration. It is effective in treating iron and manganese at combined concentrations of up to 15 mg/L. Because oxidizing filter units combine oxidation and filtration, they can be used to treat water with dissolved and/or particulate iron and manganese.
It appeared that the filter on the homeowners system was doing a decent job of removing the iron oxide particles. The more oxygen the water is exposed to before the filter, the better it works. So when the pump is working full out, there is less time for oxygenation in your pressure tank and your filter will be less effective. Retesting the water supply ahead of the filter could confirm this, but would be an additional cost. The effectiveness of the installed water softening system for iron removal is very limited. Iron and manganese present in combined concentrations of 5 ppm or less can usually be removed by using an ion exchange water softener. However, this is not an optimal removal method.
As for hard water, some University extension offices designate 125 ppm as the cut off for hard water others use 100 ppm. No matter which standard you use 120 ppm the level present in their water is only marginally hard. My own water is significantly harder and I do not treat. I just use detergent based soaps and lots of vinegar to treat the limescale. I just assume my hot water heater will be a short lifer. In addition, the water softening system might impact the life of your septic system. The salt reportedly reduces the life of the septic tank (www.watersystemscouncil.org ) and may impact the peat medium and soil in the drainage area. Also, softening can make your water slightly acidic and in that way reduce the life of all your fixtures. So softening becomes a trade off and is best only used if you prefer a slightly salty water residue. I believed that the residue on the dishes might be simply salt and suggested they try turning off their softener.
The homeowner chose to turn off their iron exchange water and found that the “dusty smell” and residue on the glasses disappeared. In addition, she claims to be much happier with the “feel” of the hard water.
Monday, January 3, 2011
Hard Water and Water Softeners
In many parts of the country (including mine) the water contains high levels of dissolved minerals and is commonly referred to as hard. Groundwater very slowly wears away at the rocks and minerals picking up small amounts of calcium and magnesium ions. Before considering treating your water test it to get a full picture of the nature of your water supply. No treatment is without consequences and an inappropriate treatment could create other problems. In addition, the characteristics of the groundwater may change over time. The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers, thought it costs over $200. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. This relatively “affordable” test will serve as a broad screen of your drinking water and guidance as to what (if any) treatment you might want. After testing my water and considering all the options I determined the best option for me was not to treat.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. Concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. You either must use more soap and detergent in washing or use specially formulated hard water soap solutions. These minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly). When heated calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life.
There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium 170 milligrams per liter yet I do not have a whole house water softener. The simple things to do to address hard water are:
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package. Occasionally running your washing machine with vinegar and hot water will clear out the buildup of lime scale.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a commercial water softening system. Water softening is basically an ion exchange system. The water softening system consists of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water supply pipe is connected to the mineral tank so that water coming into the house must pass through the tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium is often used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water, thus the taste.
Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank. Sodium is typically use, but potassium can also be used. The salt ions also have a positive electrical charge, just not quite as strong as that of calcium and magnesium, but the high concentration of salt ions overpowers the calcium and magnesium ions and drives them off of the beads and into the solution. The excess sodium solution carrying the calcium and magnesium is flushed to the septic system. Some sodium ions remain in the tank attached to the surfaces of the beads and the resin is now regenerated and ready to continue softening the water.
The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem for humans and the environment. All of the salt is released into the septic system and ultimately the leach field and groundwater. In addition softened water should not be used to water house plants, the salt build up will eventually kill them and they will not thrive. Softened water should also not be used in steam irons or evaporators like evaporative coolers. In addition, while some studies have shown that sodium does not interfere with bacterial action in ATU tanks in alternative septic systems, David Pask, Senior Engineering Scientist of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse has seen septic distribution pipes plugged with a “noxious fibrous mass” that was grease and cellulose from toilet paper that only occurred in homes with water softening systems. He felt the brine in the conventional septic tank had interfered with the digestion of the cellulose fibers and might be carried over into the septic systems drain field. Field practitioners reported to the Small Flows Clearinghouse negative impact from water softening regeneration brines.
Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). If you must soften your water there is another option. Potassium chloride can be used instead of sodium chloride. Potassium chloride works exactly the same way that sodium chloride does in the softening process and the potassium chloride reduces the amount of sodium in drinking water, the potassium in the treated water is a necessary mineral and it eliminates the excess sodium in the septic system, drain field and released into the environment. Potassium chloride costs much more than sodium chloride. A forty pound bag of pellets costs $36 for Potassium chloride and under $8 for sodium chloride. One final note, though magnetic water softening is sold, according to research done at Perdue University in the 1990’s this method of water conditioning was not effective.
Water containing approximately 125 milligrams of calcium, magnesium and iron per liter of water can begin to have a noticeable impact and is considered hard. Concentration of magnesium and calcium above 180 milligrams per liter is considered very hard. As the mineral level climbs, bath soap combines with the minerals and forms a pasty scum that accumulates on bathtubs and sinks. You either must use more soap and detergent in washing or use specially formulated hard water soap solutions. These minerals also combine with soap in the laundry, and the residue doesn’t rinse well from fabric, leaving clothes dull. Hard water spots appear on everything that is washed in and around the home from dishes and silverware to the floor tiles and car (though commercial car washes use recycled water and are more environmentally friendly). When heated calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate are removed from the water and form a scale (lime scale) in cookware, hot water pipes, and water heaters. As the scale builds up more energy is required to heat the water and hot water heater and appliances have work harder which will burn them out eventually. Thus, in hard water locations hot water heaters and other appliances have a shorter life.
There are a number of simple things you can do to reduce the effects of hard water in your home, without having to resort to treating your water, so called softening. My water has elevated levels of calcium and magnesium 170 milligrams per liter yet I do not have a whole house water softener. The simple things to do to address hard water are:
Choose a detergent based laundry product. Some laundry detergents/soaps do not produce as many suds in hard water, these are likely to be soap-based products and do not work as well in hard-water as detergent based products. These days, there are laundering powders and liquids available for a wide range of water hardness. Also, manufacturers often recommend using slightly more detergent to compensate for the hard water. Check the package. Occasionally running your washing machine with vinegar and hot water will clear out the buildup of lime scale.
Reduce the temperature of your hot water heater. When water temperature increases, more mineral deposits will appear in your dishwasher, hot water tank and pipes. By reducing the temperature, you will save money and will reduce the amount of mineral build-up in your pipes and tank. Use rinse agents to remove mineral deposits. There are low pH (acidic) products available to remove mineral deposits from pots and pans and dishwasher. Alternatively, you can use plain white vinegar by using the dishwasher dispenser or placing a cup of vinegar on the dishwasher rack. Boil some white vinegar in your kettle to remove hard water deposits. Drain and rinse your hot water heater annually.
In days past, at the first sign of hard water, domestic water supplies were commonly softened by using a commercial water softening system. Water softening is basically an ion exchange system. The water softening system consists of a mineral tank and a brine tank. The water supply pipe is connected to the mineral tank so that water coming into the house must pass through the tank before it can be used. The mineral tank holds small beads of resin that have a negative electrical charge. The calcium and magnesium ions are positively charged and are attracted to the negatively charged beads. This attraction makes the minerals stick to the beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank. Sodium is often used to charge the resin beads. As the water is softened, the sodium ions are replaced and small quantities of sodium are released into the softened water, thus the taste.
Eventually the surfaces of the beads in the mineral tank become coated with the calcium and magnesium. To clean the beads, a strong salt solution held in the brine tank is flushed through the mineral tank. Sodium is typically use, but potassium can also be used. The salt ions also have a positive electrical charge, just not quite as strong as that of calcium and magnesium, but the high concentration of salt ions overpowers the calcium and magnesium ions and drives them off of the beads and into the solution. The excess sodium solution carrying the calcium and magnesium is flushed to the septic system. Some sodium ions remain in the tank attached to the surfaces of the beads and the resin is now regenerated and ready to continue softening the water.
The amount of sodium in water conditioning systems is a real problem for humans and the environment. All of the salt is released into the septic system and ultimately the leach field and groundwater. In addition softened water should not be used to water house plants, the salt build up will eventually kill them and they will not thrive. Softened water should also not be used in steam irons or evaporators like evaporative coolers. In addition, while some studies have shown that sodium does not interfere with bacterial action in ATU tanks in alternative septic systems, David Pask, Senior Engineering Scientist of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse has seen septic distribution pipes plugged with a “noxious fibrous mass” that was grease and cellulose from toilet paper that only occurred in homes with water softening systems. He felt the brine in the conventional septic tank had interfered with the digestion of the cellulose fibers and might be carried over into the septic systems drain field. Field practitioners reported to the Small Flows Clearinghouse negative impact from water softening regeneration brines.
Personally, I do not care to add all that sodium to my diet while removing calcium carbonate and magnesium (something that is also sold in pill form for stronger bones). If you must soften your water there is another option. Potassium chloride can be used instead of sodium chloride. Potassium chloride works exactly the same way that sodium chloride does in the softening process and the potassium chloride reduces the amount of sodium in drinking water, the potassium in the treated water is a necessary mineral and it eliminates the excess sodium in the septic system, drain field and released into the environment. Potassium chloride costs much more than sodium chloride. A forty pound bag of pellets costs $36 for Potassium chloride and under $8 for sodium chloride. One final note, though magnetic water softening is sold, according to research done at Perdue University in the 1990’s this method of water conditioning was not effective.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Test Your Water Before Purchasing Home Treatment Systems
Single family home water treatment systems were historically intended to treat aesthetic water quality problems. The biggest sellers had historically been water softeners that were universally marketed to all private well owners. Lately the industry has expanded to treatment of contaminants that may pose a health hazard. Unfortunately, the industry is inconsistent in the skill and knowledge of the companies and their employees. Many water treatment companies provide free in-home water testing. This testing is very limited in scope. The only things that they can test for in the in-home tests are hardness, pH, iron and sulfur. In addition, the sensitivity of the tests can be limited. Analysis for organics and bacterial contaminants must be performed in a certified laboratory. The in-home tests are crude tests performed by people without certification and with limited training, the usefulness of the results obtained in this way are limited by the skill and honesty of the tester. Be extremely wary of in-home testing. Sloppy sampling procedures, reusing sample tubes can render the results worthless or misleading.
Before attempting to resolve a perceived water problem, have your water analyzed. Contamination from human and animal waste and chemicals can be a very real health hazard and should be addressed immediately. However, most of the water quality issues with private wells are from naturally occurring contamination. These are often nuisance contaminants that are produced from the underlying soil and rock geology and wildlife. From the underlying rocks radionuclides and heavy metals can enter the groundwater. There are areas with natural occurring arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, selenium and fluoride. While some of the symptoms of mineral contamination are obvious, never buy a treatment system until you have tested your water completely at a certified laboratory and identified the correct solution. Other contaminants may be present that need to be addressed or the “condition” may be marginal and can be addressed without installing a treatment system. There are limitations and side effects from all treatment systems. Know what they are. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable ($217 including shipping and handling) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water. Though I know it is tempting to skip the analysis, don’t. Analysis is the only way to make sure you select an effective remedy. Once you know the characteristic of your water you can choose the proper treatment system or plan of treatment. Do not assume that installing a water treatment system similar to a neighbor's will be the best answer to solving your water quality issues. There can be tremendous differences in natural water quality in extremely short horizontal distances.
Though nothing should replace testing your water supply regularly the attached publication from the Virginia Cooperative extension “Home Water Quality Problems-Causes and Treatments” is a quick read and offers suggestions for common problems. Do not treat aesthetic problems that are not a nuisance and test your water completely before you buy any treatment system.
Before attempting to resolve a perceived water problem, have your water analyzed. Contamination from human and animal waste and chemicals can be a very real health hazard and should be addressed immediately. However, most of the water quality issues with private wells are from naturally occurring contamination. These are often nuisance contaminants that are produced from the underlying soil and rock geology and wildlife. From the underlying rocks radionuclides and heavy metals can enter the groundwater. There are areas with natural occurring arsenic, cadmium, chromium, lead, selenium and fluoride. While some of the symptoms of mineral contamination are obvious, never buy a treatment system until you have tested your water completely at a certified laboratory and identified the correct solution. Other contaminants may be present that need to be addressed or the “condition” may be marginal and can be addressed without installing a treatment system. There are limitations and side effects from all treatment systems. Know what they are. While many natural contaminants such as iron, sulfate, and manganese are not considered serious health hazards, they can give drinking water an unpleasant taste, odor, or color.
The WaterCheck with Pesticides is an informational test packages targeted to be an affordable option for consumers. The WaterCheck with Pesticide covers 15 heavy metals, 5 inorganic chemicals, 5 physical factors, 4 trihalo methanes, 43 volatile organic chemicals (solvents), and 20 pesticides, herbicides and PCB’s. The Minimum Detection Levels, which are the lowest levels at which the laboratory detects that contaminant are below the levels established by the Safe Drinking Water Act so this affordable ($217 including shipping and handling) test will serve as a broad screen of drinking water. Though I know it is tempting to skip the analysis, don’t. Analysis is the only way to make sure you select an effective remedy. Once you know the characteristic of your water you can choose the proper treatment system or plan of treatment. Do not assume that installing a water treatment system similar to a neighbor's will be the best answer to solving your water quality issues. There can be tremendous differences in natural water quality in extremely short horizontal distances.
Though nothing should replace testing your water supply regularly the attached publication from the Virginia Cooperative extension “Home Water Quality Problems-Causes and Treatments” is a quick read and offers suggestions for common problems. Do not treat aesthetic problems that are not a nuisance and test your water completely before you buy any treatment system.
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